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MODERN HOUSEWIFE.

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015

https://archive.org/details/b21527970

•EnCVRAVED BY U B BALL, FROM THE

ORIGINAI*DFAVnNGBYTnK LATE MADAME

SOYER

THE

jfcloturii iKmsdmfe

OR

COMPRISING

NEARLY ONE THOUSAND RECEIPTS

FOR THE ECONOMIC AND JUDICIOUS

PREPARATION OP EVERY MEAL OE THE DAY,

AND THOSE FOB

THE NURSERY AND SICK ROOM;

WITH MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

Illustrated Irn'tlj 3Eu<jra&uigS,

INCLUDING THE

MODERN HOUSEWIFE’S UNIQUE KITCHEN, AND MAGIC STOVE.

BYV

ALEXIS gOYER,

AUTHOR OF “ THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR,”

(REFORM CLUB.)

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT; OLLIVIER, PALL MALL.

1849.

The Author of the Gastronomic Regenerator, anxious to find a Companion for his first and only Son, who has enjoyed an uninterrupted success from his birth, has, after five months of extensive research, met with one in the Modern Menage re ( Housewife ), who, he trusts, will be deemed equally deserving of praise as her Mate, being confident that they both will live in most perfect harmony in every family where their services may be required.

S, IS/4-1

TO

Begs to introduce herself, and hopes she may prove A Useful Adviser.

Jjj 1
	•

Bifrons Villa, St. J W- ,

September 29th, 1849.

Eloise, Dearest, —

Please in your name, and also in mine, return our sincere thanks to our friends, and especially to the fair daughters of Alhion, for the flattering recep- tion they have given to our culinary correspondence, or gastronomic journal, with which I beg of you espe- cially to couple that powerful organ, the public press, which in a few days, like the commotion of an earth- quake, has shaken the domesticated nerves of thou- sands of housewives throughout the United Kingdom, merely to inform them that I, “ Mrs. B.,” and you, “Mrs. L.,” humble but domesticated women, have had a friendly correspondence respecting housewifery in all its branches; the echo of which, believe me, Eloise, has done more in a few days, than half a cen- tury could ever have accomplished for us in our happy but obscure sphere; therefore you must not

VI

be too proud of our success, for be well convinced that it is more due to the iron tongue of the press than to the brain that has conceived it.

A Second Edition is already wanted, say you — “ I can hardly believe it,” — and that in less than a fort- night. At all events, the only novelty in this one must be confined to corrections, which I can assure you, thanks to you and the printer’s carelessness, are tolerably numerous; therefore, follow your pub- lisher’s advice, and cause the steam press to issue, as quickly as possible, 6000 copies, which will form the Second Edition.

With the greatest esteem,

I remain, ever yours,

Hortense.

1 p.s. — X have forwarded you one of the Magic Stoves, which I have just received from Bramah’s. I had this morning one on our breakfast-table, and cooked in a very short time, at a trifling expense, two of Soyer’s new mutton chops (No. 452), four sausages, and eight pieces of very thin bacon, and also in the flit fried two slices of bread ; we were eight to breakfast, and all enjoyed this extraordinary novelty.

You reproach me for not sending you one earlier ; that which I intended for you has been taken by the Marquis of N. and part} to Egypt, with the view of having a dinner cooked on the top of the Pyramids.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Introduction.

Dialogue between Mrs. B and Mrs. L , her Friend

and Visitor . . . • • . lx

Letter No. I. . • • • . xv

Letter No. II. ..... xv'

Breakfasts .......

First Series of Receipts . . • • *2

Letter No III. ...... 26

Early Luncheons . . . • • .27

Letter No. IV. . . . . • . ib.

The Nursery Dinner . . . . • .29

Letter No. V. ...... ib.

Comforts for Invalids . . . • • .34

Puddings for Invalids . . . • .51

Fisb for Invalids . . . , . .54

Meat for Invalids . . . . ■ .56

Poultry for Invalids . . . . • .59

Culinary Correspondence . . . . .62

Letter No. VI. . . . . . . ib.

Letter No. VII 63

Letter No. VIII. . . . . . . ib.

Letter No. IX. . . . . . .66

Letter No. X. ...... ib.

Letter No. XI. . . . . . 67

Roasting, Baking . . . . . .68

Boiling, Stewing, Braising . . . . .69

Frying ....... 70

Sauteing ....... 71

Broiling ....... 72

Sauces ....... 73

Soups ........ 88

Fish . . 110

Fish Sauces . . . . • • .143

Removes ....... 150

Letter No. XII. . . . . . .164

CONTENTS.

Poultry ....	PAGE . 183
Flancs ....		201
Entrees, or Made Dishes	.	202
Letter No. XIII.	.	228
Letter No. XIV.	.	230
Dishes with the Remains of Lamb and Pork	235,	241
Eggs .....	.	275
Garniture for Omelettes	.	279
Entrees of Game	.	280
Roasts — Second Course		289
Savoury Dishes	.	298
Letter No. XV.	.	310
Shell-fish .	.	ib.
Vegetables ....	.	319
Of different sorts of Pastry		333
Jellies .		350
Puddings in Moulds .		354
Puddings boiled in Cloths	.	355
Plain Baked Puddings in Dishes	.	357
Removes — Second Course	.	359
Souffle .		361
Dessert .	.	367
Letter No. XVI.	.	ib.
Compote ....		368
Compotes of Fruit simplified .		372
Salads of various Fruits	.	382
Letter No. XVII.		3S7
Letter No. XVIII.		389
Letter No. XIX.		394
Beverages for Evening Parties		ib.
Letter No. XX.	.	396
Letter No. XXI.	.	39S
Conversation on Household Affairs		ib.
Bills of Fare		406
Letter No. XXII.— A New Aliment .		411
Carving .	.	413
Letter No. XXIII.— The Septuagenarian Epicure .	414
Index .	.	417
Addenda— Soyer’s Anti-Cholera Diet, Sauces, and Nectar, &c.	433

INTRODUCTION.

DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B and MRS. L ,

HER FRIEND AND VISITOR.

Mrs. L. I have now, my dear Mrs. B.,been nearly a fortnight at your delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared better in my life, yet I am considered somewhat of an epicure, as is likewise my husband ; but, of course, our means being rather limited, we are obliged to live accordingly.

Mrs. B. Well, so must we; and I assure you that, during the first few years of our marriage, our pecu- niary resources were but small, but even then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense, compared with some of our neighbours, who lived more expensively, but not so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flattered me with the appellation of the 1 Model Housekeeper,’ and admired the comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided myself, whether having to provide for a ceremonious party, or dining by ourselves, to have everything properly done

X

INTRODUCTION.

and served, that, if any friends should come in by ac- cident or on business, they were generally well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without extia- vagance, as my husband is well convinced; for, when we dine with any acquaintance of ours, he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of management, for though he is no great judge of what is called the highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any time, as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food,— a chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good quality and properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will

enjoy it.

Mrs. L. Nothing more true !

Mrs. B. But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr. B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never allow him to live in such luxury, which he called

a comfortable extravagance.

“ Extravagance,” exclaimed Mr. B., “ if you have n few minutes to spare, I will convince you of the con- trary, and prove to you that such an expression is veij unjust, if applied to my wife’s management. Is ow, to begin, what sum should you suppose would cover our annual housekeeping expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve, but consider

INTRODUCTION.

XI

so extravagant ; there are ten of us in family — viz., myself and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men employed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which of course you know, (having participated in the last two,) also two separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal anniversaries, besides a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never less than once or twice a week.” — “ Well, I do not know,” answered our friend ; “ but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more humble way, my expenses for house- keeping are never less than£ perannum.” — “Less

than what!” exclaimed Mr. B. ; “ why, my dear friend, you must be mistaken,” at the same time ringing the bell. “ I wish I were, with all my heart,” was the reply, as the servant entered the room. “ Jane,” said Mr. B., “ ask your mistress to step this way for a few minutes ; I wish to look at her housekeeping book.” But being busy at the time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up the right one, with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the cooking of some veal broth, which the doctor had ordered for our poor little Henry, who was ill at the time. “ Well,” said his friend, “ there is a wife for you; I must confess mine can hardly find the

Xll

INTRODUCTION.

way to the kitchen stairs.” “ Now !” said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up my hook, he showed

him the last year’s expenditure, which was £

“No ! no ! that is impossible,” replied the other. “ But,” said Mr. B., “ there it is in black and white.” “ Why, good heavens 1” exclaimed he, “ without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my expenditure is certainly greater.” To which Mr. B. replied, “ So I should imagine, from the style in which I saw your table pro-

vided the few days we were on a visit to your house; therefore I am not in the least astonished. Here, however, is the account for the closing year, just made up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably to £50 or £60 more.” “ So, so,” replied the other, “that is an increase.” — “ Let it be so, said Mr. B., “ but you must remember that we are twelve- months older, and as our business increases, so do we increase our comforts; and this year Mrs. B. with the children had a pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for the greater part of it.” Mrs. L. But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend could possibly have. been. I should, however, have liked you to explain the matter; but here comes your husband, who will pro-

bably initiate me in your culinary secrets.

Good morning, my dear Mr. B., I hope I have the

pleasure of seeing you well.

INTRODUCTION.

xiii

Mr. B. Perfectly so, Madam.

Mrs. L. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had with a gentleman, who was sur- prised with its economy. I am also surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most excellent book, if you will allow me.

Mr. B. Certainly, my dear madam ; in my wife, with- out flattering her too much, you see almost an accom- plished woman, (in hearing such praise Mrs. B. retired, saying, “How foolishly you talk, Richard ;”) she speaks two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is rather proficient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering household knowledge to be of the greatest importance, made her first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano ; that is the only secret, dear madam ; and this is the explanation that I gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest, and one of truth. I told him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not only make them more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity by setting an example worthy of being followed.

I always saJj me a domesticated wife, and with my industry, I would not change my position for a kingdom; “Very true, very true,” was my friend’s answer, and we then parted.

XIV

INTRODUCTION.

I have never seen him since, nor his wife, who v as probably offended at the economical propositions of her husband; for nothing, you are well aware, is more common than for people to he offended when told the truth respecting themselves ; or perhaps she w as too advanced in years to think of changing her ideas of housekeeping.

I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey you to the railway ; allow me to see you safe to the station ; you will not have many mi- nutes to spare, for the train will shortly he up.

Thank you, my dear sir, (replied Mrs. L.,) and, m bidding adieu, allow me to express the gratification and delight I have felt during my stay with yourself and your estimable wife, whose friendship I shall always highly prize.

As she took her seat in the carriage, and departed, a farewell was given from the parlour-window by

Mrs. B.

About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was seen entering her cottage at Oatlands,. fully re- solved to follow, as closely as possible, the economic management of Mrs. B. ; but a little reflection soon made her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient in the practice; she then deter- mined to beg of her friend a few receipts m writing, and immediately despatched the following letter : —

INTRODUCTION.

XV

LETTEE No. L

From Mrs. L to Mrs. B

Oatlands Cottage; Jan. 1st, 1849.

My deab Hobtense, — Upon my arrival at Lome, I am happy to say that I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so long an absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough to say appeared months; but to myself the time appeared to pass very swiftly; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested in watching closely how well you managed your household affairs, that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your recherche style of cookery, which even now Z cannot make out how you could do it at such moderate expense : and, apropos of cooking, Mr. L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long interview and discussion with Cook respect- ing the bid of fare. “Well, sir,” I will suppose she said, “what can be better than a fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons ; we have a very fine un hanging in the larder.” (You must observe, dear, that my cook is plain in every way.) “ A very excellent notion that, Cook; nothing can be better than a good goose;” was, no doubt, my husband s answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot endure the trouble of ordering it.

Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have been amalgamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, especially the sage and onions ; and I am almost certain that the inseparable apple-sauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the brown smoke now ascending from the grating over the kitchen win- dow. This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have qrnte a reform in my little establishment, and first of all to hr in a- Up my daughter m the way recommended by Mr. B. to his friend to make her more domesticated than I am myself, as I bernn to per- ceive that a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as intellectual education; and, for my part, I have come to the deter- mination of adoptmg your system of management as closely as pos- sible ; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific advice

XVI

INTRODUCTION.

it will be totally impossible ; therefore I beg to propose (if you can afford tbe time) that you will, by writing, give me the description bow you lay out your breakfast-table, with tbe addition of a lew receipts for tbe making of robs and tbe other breakfast bread, wine I so much enjoyed while with you; even bow to make toast, and more especially bow you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa (tea, of course, I know) And should this meet your approbation I mean to make a bttle journal, which may some day or other be useful to our

families and friends. . »

Until I hear from you I shall be waitmg with anxiety for your

decision upon this important and domestic subject.

Remaining, dear Hortense,

Yours very sincerely,

LETTER No. II.

From Mrs. B , in reply.

Bifrons Villa; Jan. 3rd, 1S49.

V not <ro through the different meals of the day? that is, alter w h i +lipn the nursery dinner at one ; andheie

toeal rt the introduce sotne receipts,

a for CSaH even our servants' dinners and

*° ^ ifefike ilv dtonelat two or toe, for people in bnsmess, teas; then the eailj coffee after diimePf and even suppers

£ filler evening party; but all on a nnodenrte scale, leav.

^1“ »*** ti,e tot

receipt, Mow to make Toast.

BREAKFASTS.

When we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in family, fire of whom breakfasted together, the three young ■

men in the shop, Mr. B , and myself. The cloth was

laid by the servant girl at half-past seven precisely ; at ten minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight o’clock we were seated. The breakfast, which was composed merely of bread and butter at discretion, fresh water- cresses when plentiful, or sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee ; if in the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any servant to prepare more than five minutes before we were seated, for, if standing any time, the dry toast becomes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and consequently unpalatable, as well as in- digestible. Twenty minutes only was the time allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared, the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we kept a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a halfpenny upon any one who should spill either tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness. Such was always my plan when in business ; and you must know as well as myself, it is not only the expense of the washing, but the continual wear and tear of the linen, which make such frequent washings so ruinous ; but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident that not less than five pounds a year were saved on that very trifling matter, washing, and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we perhaps now do of twenty.

Respecting our present time and method of setting out our breakfast-table, you are acquainted with it as well as myself ; it would, therefore, be useless to trouble you with

B

o

BREAKFASTS.

it, but if you consider it worthy of notice, you can of course describe it yourself. Now to business : before par- taking of a breakfast, you must provide the materials, (which I always select of the best quality,) and require to know how to prepare them. I shall, therefore, give you a . series of every description of articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast- table.

FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS.

1. TOAST. — Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one or two days previously, (for the new cannot be cut, and would eat very heavy,) then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly, and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness, (I generally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast; being longer in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste it.) Contrive to have a clear fire : place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute be- fore the fire, then turn it, hold it before the fire another minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown colour, then again turn it, toasting the other side in the same mannei ; lav it then upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy,) spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut into four or six pieces ; should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole ; but cut .each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it. This

BREAKFASTS.

3

way you will find a great improvement upon the old system, as often in cutting through four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish.

N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both sides, is a very great improvement upon the quality of the toast ; it may give a trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker done, and much lighter.

All kinds of toast must be done the same way, but if to be served under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier.

Being in every way an economist, I generally save the remnants of the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten as bread, and by just dipping them in warm water, toast- ing them gradually, and buttering them, I found that they were eaten in preference ; but their being stale is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would prevent their ever being eaten after.

2. DRY TOAST should not be made until quite ready to serve ; when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon its edges, one piece resting against another : any kind of toast that has been made half an hour is not worth eating.

3. TO TOAST MUFFINS, (see No. 6.)— Just pull open, half an inch deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the centre, then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom, hold it a little distance from the fire until partly warmed through, turn it and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted, again turn it to toast the other side ; when done, pull it open, spread a thin layer of butter on each side, close them together; lay them upon a plate, and with a sharp knife divide them across

b 2

4

BREAKFASTS.

the middle, and serve very hot. II more than one muffin is required, cut them all separately, and pile them lightly one upon another on the plate ; when well prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a trifling expense.

4. TO TOAST CRUMPETS.— Crumpets stand lower in the general estimation of the public, probably' fiom not being so distingue, and having the misfortune to be cheapei than their sister muffins ; but, for all that, the poor ought never to be forgotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows is not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if pos- sible, though they are not bad after having been made three or four days ; toast them by warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice light brown colour on each side; lay them in a plate, and spread some rather soft butter lightly upon each side ; cut in halves with a sharp knife, and serve ; half an ounce of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient. If you have several to serve, lay them separately upon a large hot dish ; some people place them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted

rather quickly.

5. MILK ROLLS FOR BREAKFAST.— Here, dearest,

I must recommend you tlie following receipt, which I consider an economical luxury especially when you have a few friends upon a visit at your house. I shall here describe it so plainly, that I am confident you cannot fail even upon the first trial. (Remark how simple)

Have a convenient sized basin, into which put half a pound of the best flour, making a hole in the middle ; add half an ounce of German yeast, one ounce of butter, a tea- spoonful of powdered sugar, and half ditto of salt, over which pour three large wineglassfuls of lukewarm milk ; mix t le

BREAKFASTS.

5

whole, by degrees, with your hand, (using a little more flour,) until forming a stiffish paste ; rub off' the paste which adheres to your fingers, and form the whole into a ball, which leave at the bottom of the basin, covered over with a clean cloth, and set it half an hour to rise, or prove, in a warmish place, after which throw a little flour upon a dresser, cut the paste into pieces of the size of eggs, mould them of a round, oval, or any other shape you may fancy, egg over with a paste-brush, and place them upon a baking sheet, or upon the bottom of the oven if clean and not too hot ; a few minutes will suffice to bake them, and they may be served either hot or cold.

6. TO MAKE MUFFINS. — Mix a quart of warm water in which you have dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with sufficient flour to form a stiff batter, which let remain in a warm place four horn’s, then stir the mixture down, and break it into pieces, weighing a quarter of a pound each, which mould round with your hands, and put into wooden trays containing a round bed of flour for each ; let them remain in a warm place two hours to prove ; have your muffin-stove hot; have a round piece of iron, which place on the fire to get hot; set the muffins upon it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them upon the stove until sufficiently set, when they are done; they will take about ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat, which is known by throwing a little flour on it and it becomes brown. Muffins may also be made of brewer’s yeast, but then they would require longer proving, and great care must be taken that the yeast is not bitter.

7. TO MAKE CRUMPETS.— Mix a gill of brewer’s yeast, free from bitter, with two quarts of water, just luke- warm, to which add sufficient flour to make a thinnish

6

BREAKFASTS.

batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place, then stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four hours longer; have the muffin-stove hot, upon which lay a number of tin hoops, the size of crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each hoop, and when the top is covered with small bladders, turn them quickly over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and in about fi ve minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked.

8. RUSKS.— Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make a hole in the middle, into which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a little of the flour in, and leave it half an hour in a warm place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint o f warm water; mix the whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until well risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, place them upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart, and put them in a warm place to prove, occasion- ally moistening the tops with milk; bake them in a moderate oven; when cold, cut them in slices the thick- ness of a penny piece, which lay upon a clean baking- sheet, and put into a warm oven, when well browned upon one side, turn them over, put them again into the ov en until the other side is browned, they are then done and ready for use.

9 TOPS AND BOTTOMS.— Make a dough exactly as described in the last, but using only half the butter; have a deep-edged baking-sheet well buttered, and when the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well floured ; divide into small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould into round balls, and place close together upon the baking-

BREAKFASTS. '

sheet; put them in a warm place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven; when cold, divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown in the oven as directed for rusks.

10. BUNS. — Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan, make a hole in the middle, in which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in three parts of a pint of warm water, and stir in a little of the floui, foiming a thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour, until well fermented, then add half a pound of sugar, a few currants, and half a pound of butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk ; mix the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough ; let it remain in a warm place until it rises very light, then turn it out of the pan on to a board ; work it well with the hands, shaking flour over lightly, then mould it into small round balls, double the size of walnuts, which place upon a buttered baking- sheet, four inches apart; moisten the tops with milk; put them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting them to crack, and bake them in a hot oven.

11. BRIOCHE ROLLS. — Put four pounds of flour upon a dresser, one pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the middle, into which pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water, in which you have dissolved an ounce of German yeast ; mix it into a stiff but delicate paste, which roll up into a ball: cut an incision across it, and lay it in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until becoming very light, then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into which put half an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of water, and sixteen eggs, mix it into a softish flexible paste, which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean cloth,

8

BREAKFASTS.

fold the paste in it and let remain all night. In the morn- ing mould them into small rolls; put them upon a baking- sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless your break- fast party is very large, half the above quantity will be sufficient. These rolls being quite a luxury, I only make them upon very especial occasions.

EGGS.

12. HOW TO CHOOSE EGGS. — New-laid eggs should not be used until they have been laid about eight or ten hours, for that part which constitutes the white is not properly set before that time, and does not until then obtain that delicate flavour ; that which is termed milk in eggs being, according to my opinion, very insipid, but that entirely depends upon fancy.

Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decomposition, it is very important that every person should know how to detect them, (especially in the winter, when a much greater quantity are used in London ;) if, by shaking them, they sound hollow, you may be certain they are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for breakfast, but, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary purpose, except for souffles, for which eggs must be very fresh. The safest way to try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus with your hand; should the shell be covered with small dark spots, they are very doubtful, and should be broken separately in a cup, and each egg ' smelt previously to using them; if, however, in looking at them, you see no transparency in the shells, you may be sure they are rotten and only fit to be thrown aw ay ; the most precise way is, to look at them by the light of a candle ; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and they have a brilliant light yellow tint ; in the spring

BREAKFASTS.

9

of the year, it would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh.

13. EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, — plain boiled. — Put about a pint of water to boil in any kind of small stewpan, (or saucepan,) over the fire ; when boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast, or the in- terior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving them an unsightly appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking regularly ; three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if below the average size, two minutes and a half will suffice.

14. EGGS AU BEURRE, ( a neic method.) — Let the eggs boil six minutes instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate, (they will remain quite whole if properly done,) cut each egg in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over the interior, and eat them very hot.

Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible.

15. TO BOIL EGGS HARD. — Never boil eggs for salads, sauces, or any other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done place them in a basin of cold water for five minutes to cool ; take off their shells, and use them when required.

Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard- boiled.

16. POACHED EGGS. — Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with four teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a tea- spoonful of salt, place it over the fire, and when boiling,

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break your eggs into it as near the surface of the water as possible, let them boil gently about three minutes ; have rather a thin piece of toast, as described, (No. 1,) upon a dish, take the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second, to drain the water from them, set them carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they will look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boding them must bo most carefully attended to, and care should be taken not to boil too many together; if the yolks separate from the white, it may be presumed that the egg is not Ires , but it may be eatable, for the same thing may happen through awkwardness in poaching.

Again, the toast upon which they are served may be buttered either with plain or maitre-d'hotel butter, or two small pats of butter may be melted, without boiling it, and poured over, or a little melted butter sauce, or the same with the addition of a little maitre-d’hotel butter poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or aim e anchovy butter instead of the other ; thus you may be able to indulge in nice little luxuries at a trifling expense.

17. TOAST AND EGGS.— Break three eggs into a small stewpan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter, (the fresher the better,) set the stewpan over a moderate lire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being care- ful to keep every particle in motion, until the w io e ms become a smooth and delicate thickish substance : have ready a convenient- sized crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediate!} .

18. EGGS SUE LE PLAT.-Lightly butter a small oval dish, upon which break two, three, or more eggs wi

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out breaking the yolks, season lightly with a little white pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of butter here and there upon them, and then set the dish in the small oven, where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no means hard, and serve hot ; if the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten minutes; if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most excellent dish.

19. OMELETS may also be served for breakfast with great advantage, being very relishing, especially the ome- lettes aux fines herbes, au lard , and aux champignons , but as they are considered to belong to the dinner, they will be given in that series of receipts.

FISH.

20. HERRING TOAST SANDWICH. — Choose a bloater for this purpose not too dry, which split in two, cutting it down the back ; lay them upon a plate and pour a pint of boiling water over ; let them soak five minutes, when lay them upon a cloth to dry ; then broil them very gradually upon a gridiron ; when well done, which will be in about four or five minutes, have ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy parts equally upon one piece of toast, and cover with the other ; serve very hot.

21. TOAST AND EGGS WITH HERRING.— Pre- pare your toast and eggs as directed, (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh of a herring as directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that. Herring upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also very good.

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Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may sardines, but they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold without splitting them; they are very delicious: if wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the fire.

22. BLOATED HERRINGS. — They require to be freshly salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpa- latable ; scrape them lightly with a knife, and wipe them well with a cloth ; pass the point of a knife down the back from head to tail, making an incision about a quarter of an inch in depth ; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp fire ; they will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them occasionally ; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the backs, and place half a small pat of butter in each ; again close them : cooked this way they are delicious, especially if they are real bloaters. Another way is to cut them quite open and bioil them flat upon the gridiron, and serve quite plain; this way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice and lre=h, oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over three or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you have any that have become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water, and proceed as first directed. (Same process will do tor red

herrings.)

23. DRIED HADDOCK.— A very excellent thing for breakfast, but they never ought to be cooked whole tor one side being thinner than the other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half done, espe- cially the larger ones; the better plan is to cut them m halves lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire, keeping them frequently turned, and taking

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the thinnest half off first ; the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly ; when clone, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish.

The small Scotch Finnon haddocks are by far the best, and may be cooked whole, being more equally divided, but the side where the bone is left may, perhaps, w7ant another minute, but not sufficient to spoil the other.

Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course would take rather more time in cooking.

24. WHITINGS. — Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food that could possibly be served for breakfast : their method is, to obtain the fish as fresh as possible, clean and skin them, take out the eyes, cover the fish over with salt, im- mediately after which take them out and shake off the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and hang them up to dry in a passage, or some place where there is a current of air ; the next morning take them oflj just roll them lightly in a little flour, broil them gently over a slow fire, and serve very hot, with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry, if preferable.

Any whitings obtained here might be dressed in the same manner and eat very good, but nothing to equal the Scotch small whiting with the skin on ; wffien cleansed, well wiped with a cloth, salted as before, and broiled, may also be served with a maitre-d’hotel butter spread over them.

25. SLIPS, or SMALL SOLES. — When cleaned, season them wTith a little pepper and salt, dip lightly into

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flour, and broil them slowly over a moderate fire about ten minutes, or according to the size; when done, place them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of cieam over and serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the cream over is a new and veiy good idea. Nothing but small white fish could be tole- rated for breakfast.

26. SPRATS when nicely cooked are very commend- able. Dip them lightly into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire; when about half done, turn them; when done (which would be in about five minutes from the time you put them on,) serve dry in a very hot dish.

27. SARDINES. — There are but very few of these delicate little things used in England, yet there is nothing more calculated to give a zest to the appetite at breakfast or luncheon; I suppose it is their high price which pre- vents their coming much in vogue; but when I have a few visitors my table is never without, and they are really very much approved of; the box of twenty-four cost from two to three shillings, depending on the size of the fish.

28. DRIED SPRATS.— Upon these I put but very little praise, being generally so very dry and salt ; they may be eaten plain as they are, or broileu slightly.

MEAT.

29. SHEEP’S KIDNEYS.— Procure as many as you may require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient ; be sure that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not able to judge b_\ then' appearance; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, down

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to the root, but not to separate them ; then have some small iron or wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, b_y running the skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part ; season them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them upon a gridiron, (the inside downwards,) over a sharp Are,; in three minutes turn them over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done; then take them off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately! In opening them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be diied before the other was sufficiently cooked.

30. KIDNEYS ON TOAST. — Prepare the kidneys precisely as m the last, but when done .have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly; lay the kidneys upon it; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon ;

place a small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve.

™NE^S BREAD -CRUMBED, d la Motive- - iH f lrfpare the kidneys as before, and when upon e skewer have ready upon a plate an egg well beat up with a fork; season the kidneys with a little salt and peppm, dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them wnh bread-crumbs, put them upon the gridiron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them about ten minutes, irmnn tiem when half done, have ready a little maitre- d hotel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve immediately upon a very hot dish; by the time it gets upon the table the butter will be melted,' and they

z:z:tshmei this **

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32. SAUTEED KIDNEYS.— Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put an ounce of butter into a saute-pan (which of course must be very clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise, and when the butter is melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well sea- soned them with pepper and salt ; set the pan on a mode- rate fire three minutes, then turn them ; place them again upon the fire until done ; when have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the kidneys with the butter and gravy over, and serve very hot. Care must be taken in sauteing that the butter does not become burnt.

Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or onions, over them whilst being sauted. This materially changes the flavour, and meets the approbation of many.

For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you to where they are given as receipts for the dinner-table.

HAM, BACON.

33. BACON AND HAM, how to choose hotlijitfor broil- ing. Ham for broiling ought not to be too old or too dry,

it would perhaps eat rank. Nothing requires more care than broiling. Either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron ; put them over the fire ; it will take perhaps five minutes if the fire is good, and more, of course, if slow; but in that short space of time, turn them three or four times, and it is done Proceed the same if you want to serve it with poached eggs (see No. 16), but be careful that the eggs be ready at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both vould eat badly. If you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only, as is often the case at a farmhouse,

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begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction, and the same thickness, and proceed to the end of the ham with the re- mainder. It will prove more profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad beans, &c. &c.

bo saute it, put a little butter or good fat in the pan ; set it on the fire with your slice in it, saute very gently, turning very often, and serve on very thin toast.

34. HAM AND EGGS. — While your ham is doing, break two fresh eggs in the pan, season slightly with salt and peppei, set it before the fire till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them whole carefully into your dish, without breaking the yolk.

35. BACON— The streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred - cut nice slices, not above a quarter of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire; turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes ; this will be all the eooking required. Serve it very hot. Though this is the best part, the whole of the bacon is still good, especially if not rank, which can be easily detected by its yellowish colour- if too dry or salt, after it has been cut in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four times, and saute as usual ; it will make it softer and less salt. Serve as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, it is also very good broiled or fried for next day’s breakfast.

36 • SAUSAGES.— Sausages are very frequently es- teemed for breakfast ; the Cambridge are most in vogue - uit tie best I e^ er tasted were made a present to me by Sir George Chetwynd, Bart, made by a country pork butcher at Atherstone, a small town near Grendon Hall 10 country seat of the above-mentioned baronet. They

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are more plainly made, and also better seasoned, and not subject to bursting like the Cambridge ones, or, at all events, those made in London under that name. Oxford produces good sausages, not so choice in appearance, but, to my taste, better in flavour; the plainer they are, the better they dress for breakfast ; by all means, never use them except you are confident that they are fresh. The skin must be transparent, that the meat should be seen through ; they keep good two or three days in a cold place, in summer, nearly a week in winter (with care.) For the re- ceipt how to make them in the homely way, see future letter.

37. SAUSAGES, — liow to cook Mem.— Prick them with a pin all round about twenty times, put them on the gridiron over a gentle fire; turn three or four times, bt doing which you will have them a very nice yellow colour ; dish them, and serve them very hot.

38. SAUTEED SAUSAGES.— If your fire smoke, it is preferable to saute them. Put some butter in the pan, with four sausages ; after you have pricked them as before men- tioned, saute gently ; a few minutes will do them ; turn them often. In many instances, a thin slice of bread sauted in the fat they have produced, is a great improve- ment : save the fat, as it is always useful in a kitchen. In case you are in a hurry to do them, throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their being broiled or sauted ; they will then be the sooner cooked, and even eat rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, the oil being extracted thereby from the skin; they may also be fried in the frying-pan.

39. BLACK PUDDINGS. — They are in Prance a regular standing dish for a winter’s breakfast, and ought to be more in use in England ; but I

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must observe that I mean the home-made ones, or those made a la Frwapaig, because I consider those that are usually sold in almost every shop are too heavy for breakfast ; they may pass at dinner-time, though I must confess the flavour is not at all to my liking.

40. BLACK PUDDINGS, BROILED.— Make about six or eight incisions through the skin with a knife, slant- wise, on each side of the pudding; put it on the gridiron for about eight minutes, over rather a brisk fire ; turn it four times in that space of time, and serve broiling hot.

I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of no other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog to the stomach. In France they partake of white wine for breakfast, which accounts for the great consumption of black pudding. Now really this is a very favourite dish with epicures, but I never recommend it to a delicate stomach.

COFFEE.

COFFEE, which has now come so generally into use, originally came from Arabia, where it has been known from time immemorial, but was brought into use in England in the year 1653 ; as it is not generally known how it was introduced, I will give you the account of it from “Houghton’s Collection,” 1698. It appears that a Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English merchant of Smyrna, brought with him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, in 1652, who made his coffee ; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman Hodges’ daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee- man in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Comhill, which is now a scrivener s brave-house, when, having great custom, the ale-sellers petitioned the Lord Mayor against him, as being no freeman. This made Alderman Hodges join his coachman, Bowman, who was free, as Pasqua’s partner ; but Pasqua, for some misdemeanor, was forced to run the country, and Bowman, by his trade and a contribution of 1000 sixpences, turned the shed to a house. Bowman’s apprentices were, first, John Painter, then Humphrey, from whose wife I had this account.” Having examined the renter churchwarden’s bode of St. Michael, Comhill, I find that the house or shed Bowman built is now

c 2

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part of the Jamaica Coffee-House ; it was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, in 1667.

It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know how to make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first quality of that delicious berry ; but, by way of contrast, I must say that the middle classes of France are quite as ignorant of the method of making tea.

I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B., where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who invited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party & VAnglaise, as they used to call it, about an hour previous to tea, and previous to the arrival of the guest3, I was walking upon the lawn before the house, when my attention was attracted by a cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen-window, smelling most powerfully of tea : my curiosity led me to the kitchen, where I found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious coffee, but pre- paring the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves of which were in an awful state of agitation, attempting as it were to escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire, in which the delicious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously. (See Pot-au-Feu.)

“ My dear girl,” said I (in French), “ what process do you call that of

making tea? it never ought to be boiled.”

“I beg your pardon, Madame,” says she, “master and mistress like it well done, and it will be another short half hour before it is properly cooked (ce sera alors copieux). ”

“ You are decidedly wrong,” said I, “and I shall be most happy to show you the way we make it in England.

“Yes, I know what you mean, Madame,” replied she ; “I used to make it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one hour in a copper pan over a charcoal fire.” Upon which I retired, making a most comical Grimace, to refrain from laughing at her still more ridiculous fashion.

3 you must, however, observe, that this occurred nearly twelve years ago, and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then by the continual traffic of the English through that part of the country. I must say, with respect to ourselves, we do not make quite such a blunder respecting coffee, but still our middle-classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that dehcious

beverage, which should be made as follow s .

Choose the coffee of a very nice brown colour, but not black (which would denote that it was burnt, and impart a bitter fla\ our) , grind it at home. '

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possible, as you may then depend upon the quality ; if ground in any quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To make a pint, put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin saucepan, which set dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee round with a wooden spoon continually until it is quite hot through, but not in the least burnt ; should the fire be very fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off every now and then until hot (which would not be more than two minutes), then pour over a pint of boiling water, cover close, and let it stand by the side of the fire (but not to boil) for five minutes, strain it through a cloth or a piece of thick gauze, rinse out the stewpan, pour the coffee (which will be quite clear) back into it, place it upon the fire, and, when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for breakfast, but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner.

To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, I shall here give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is :

41. TO MAKE COFFEE. — Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which set upon the fire, stirring- the powder round with a spoon until quite hot, then pour over a pint of boiling water ; cover over closely for five minutes, pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve.*

This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced to the public, and was found out by the author of this work through the following circumstance : Whilst travelling by night in a railway train, and arriving in due time at the station, where positively no more than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature, after a long and tedious journey, and then obliged to use a certain portion of manual strength in pushing through the crowd to get at what is called the refreshment room, and after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served with some of the boding liquid which they called coffee, found it as bad as any human being could possibly make it (they having probably waited patiently by the side of a winter s fire until the last train made its appearance) ; it tasted anything but palatable ; but having a long journey before me, and requiring somethin” to eat and drink, I was obliged to put up with it ; but before I could even partake of half, or finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin the unsociable bell violently rang to acquaint the passengers that their appe- s were perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us believe it; and every -one being perfectly aware that railway trains, like time, wait for no one the hurry of which event, fortunately, made me esc we &S™ * Tgf th‘ck Part which was deposited at the bottom of the cup firW f 0Ut ,0f the refreshment room, I jumped into the wrong carriage the fidgety train having changed its place, and the time being too short to nictifv tt- h 1 WaS °,llg,ed t0 lnake fresh acquaintance with mynew^ PW'ioiv, de voyage, who happened to be as much dissatisfied withthe steam-

22

breakfasts.

The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any person, but more or less coffee could be used if required; the cloth through which it is passed should be immediately washed and put by for the next occasion. A hundred cups of coffee could be made as here directed in half an hour, by procuring a pan sufficiently large, and using the proper proportions of coffee and water, passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly-bag.

42. COFFEE, FRENCH FASHION.— To a pint of coffee, made as before directed, add a pint of boiling milk; warm both together until nearly boiling, and serve. I he French never use it any other way for breakfast.

43. WHITE COFFEE ( a new style.) — Put two ounces of unground coffee, slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire, slowly warming the coffee through, shaking the stewpan round every half minute ; when very hot, which you will perceive by the smo -e arising from it, pour over half a pint of boiling water ;

who said, 1 never trav fa t _b a sman bottle and gutta-percha

companion ; and pulling o T. , £ tbe best eaw de vie I had

soon as I arrived at the Reform C^b,1 would Successful in simplify the present method °* On my arrival in London,

my researches, I wouldfor \ h tl 1 unfortuByte than myself got

I found my first travelling tnencis, wn , witll the “ spirited'’

in their proper place, and, any more coffee at night, espe-

«“* 1 SC’ S&'EjSS 3? receipt to my

' o Mr DBAS Ste, — 1 1.™ merle »

which you have kindly forwarded to me and beg to acquaint y „ w C->. recollect having tasted better.— Yours, &c.

BCOllGCb 1 11 n

I it, .trongly *Ml my ^ tailing U

SS tep'TtaSelie “:&7«r,V, »hiel, «uld p.eve»« »U the — inconvenience, both as regards quality and heat.

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cover the stewpan well, and let it infuse by the side of the fixe for fifteen minutes ; then add half a pint of boiling hot milk, pass the coffee through a small fine sieve into the coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar-candy or crystallized sugar. It is, as you will perceive, a great novelty, and an agreeable change. But if, by neglect, you let the coffee get black, or the least burnt, do not attempt to make use of it : it should only be sufficiently charred to break easily in a mortar if required.

44. COFFEE MADE WITH A FILTER.— To make a quart : first put a pint of boiling water through the filter to warm it, which pour away, then put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee upon the filter, and upon which put the presser and the grating lightly, pour over half a pint of boiling water, let it stand three or four minutes, then pour over a pint and a half more boiling water ; when well passed through, pour it into a clean stewpan, which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum arises, but not boiling; pour it again through the filter, and when well drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve with hot milk, or a little cream, separately.

45. ANOTHER WAY, (more economical.) — Proceed as in the last, but drain the coffee through once only, and serve ; after which, pour another quart of boiling water over the coffee-grounds, which, when drained through, re- serve, and boil up for the next coffee you make, using it instead of water, and an ounce less coffee.

TEA.

TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced into this country: it was in the year of the fire of London, 1666, and has re- placed an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be partaken of

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previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is a plant indigenous to China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many varieties, the proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of a tea-dealer. It is exceedingly useful it many cases of sickness, and particularly after having partaken of any liquor to excess, or after extraordinary fatigue. When new, it is a narcotic; but when old it has a different effect ;* in its native country it is never par- taken of until a year old, and not then, unless exceedingly desiccated. I cannot recommend you any one in particular, as that depends on taste ; but this I advise, that when you have a kind to your liking, keep to it.

And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend you, or attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to contradict your assertion, made at the commencement of our undertaking, where you say, respecting tea, of course I know how to make it ; you made it whilst staying at our house occasionally, and Mr. B. found there was a great difference between it and mine. But to tell you the truth respecting tea, I have a little secret of my own, being a discovery which I made a short time ago by accident. Whilst in the act of making tea, I had just put the dry tea in the pot, when I heard a fearful scream up-stairs in the drawing-room ; rushing there, I found my little girl had had a severe fall in reaching something from the chimney-piece, the stool upon which she stood having upset : twenty minutes at least elapsed before I returned to my tea (which, being alone, I was in no particular hurry for), when I found that the servant, thinking there was water in the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the oven, which was rather hot ; when she brought it to me I was rather annoyed, when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot through, the tea would not require so long to draw ; I then filled the tea-pot with boiling- water, and in a minute afterwards had a most delicious cup of tea, since which I have adopted the system upon all occasions, and am now having made a small spirit-lamp to warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not always hot ; it may, however, be made hot in front of the fire, but not too close, of course. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbours, who actually laughed at the

* Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a certain time, and which could not be done without employing the night as well as the day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, sugar, and lemon- juice, as a beverage, and, with light food, I was enabled to do it with but eighteen hours’ sleep, from eight o’clock on Monday morning to five o clock on the following Sunday morning.

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idea, but never tried it, saying, "We cannot teach anything to our grand- mothers, and that what did for them would do for us.” Now, what could you say to such people ? why, nothing ; but let them alone, as I shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I know, have better sense ; proceed as I have directed, and you will find it a great improvement. Put your- tea in the pot ten minutes before ready for it, warming both tea and pot, before the fire or in a slow oven ; fill with boiling water, and leave it from three to five minutes to draw, when it is quite ready.

CACAO.

CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America, and it retains its Indian name ; of course, it was first used in Spain, and did not come into use in England until much later ; and we find that there was imported into England, in the year 1694, about 13,000tbs weight of it ; in 1848, 410,000fts. It is a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and three or four thick, which contains about thirty nuts : the tree grows to only a few feet in height.

During the time of the famine in Ireland, I turned my attention to this valuable fruit, whose nutritive qualities are so great ; and from conversation and correspondence with our principal importex-s and manufactui-ers of cho- colate, I found that it cannot be had in sufficient quantities to allow of a great consumption, as it is a production which, like all others, is subject to vicissitudes, which, at times, considerably raise the price of the nut ; but I see no reason why it should not be made an article of greater cultivation, so as to provide for the great demand which would arise if it were more gene- rally introduced. In the course of my experiments, I have found that the shell is almost as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it, which, to many, are unpleasant ; aird I am confident that large quantities might be imported into this country at a very cheap rate, which ai'e, at the pi'esent moment, thrown away in South America and the West India Islands, just in the same way as the tobacco-stalk was, but which is now imported into this country for the purpose of making snuff. If imported in greater quantities, it would be a most excellent article of diet in our workhouses and charitable institutions.

46. CHOCOLATE. — Scrape two ounces of the cake into a stew or sauce pan, with a gill of water, upon the

26

BREAKFASTS.

fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until rather thick, when work it quickly with a spoon, stirring in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees ; serve very hot, with sugar separate.

47. CHOCOLATE MADE IN THE ITALIAN METHOD. — Procure a regular chocolate-pot with a inuller, the handle of which comes through the lid ; one might be procured at any brazier’s ; put in two ounces ot chocolate (scraped), over which by degrees pour a pint of boiling milk, put on the lid with the muller inside, which keep well moving, setting the pot upon the fire, and when very hot and frothy, serve.

47. COCOA. — Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered cocoa into a cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, stir it until dissolved, when it is ready to serve; sugar separately.

LETTER Fo. III.

Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 18-10.

Dear Hortense, — I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which y ou have sent me for the breakfasts, properly classified, having omitted the cold meats (as you desired me) from tins series, thinking, as you do, they are more suited for the luncheon. To save useless repetition, I have placed the receipts in numbers, by which references can he easily made, and any dish appearing in the dinner or luncheon series, but available for breakfast, can be directly found.

One thing I remember when at your house was, that when the remains of a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a side-table, and let any one help themselves from it there ; your idea being, I believe, that very few persons liked to have a large dish of meat before their eyes almost imme- diately after rising from their beds, or at the first meal of the morning, specting the way your table was laid out, to the best of my recollection, it was as follows First, the large table-cloth, over which was laid a smal

EARLY LUNCHEONS.

27

napkin before each person, with cups and saucers for tea or coffee, at choice, pmn.ll plates for rolls, and a size larger for meat, sausages, eggs, &c., a small knife and fork for each ; the- butter in a pretty freezing butter-glass, just covered with clear spring-water, and garnished with a few sprigs of parsley or water-cresses ; the cream in a small china cream-jug, and a larger jug con- taining hot milk for coffee ; orange marmalade in its original pot, honey- comb, water-cresses,, and. once a few nice young radishes, which were excel- lent, although a little out of. season ; one day also dry toast was served, another day buttered, the: next muffins, then crumpets, white and brown bread, and small rolls, thus making a continual change, but all so small and inviting. I shall always, when I have company, as you had then, arrange everything in the same manner, especially now that I have your receipts written down. But when you are alone; you tell me you never make any such display, which of course would be ridiculous ; still even then you vary, by having either tea, coffee, or chocolate, which change I like as well as

you. I eat meat occasionally, but Mr. L generally likes a little broiled

bacon, or boiled eggs, things in. themselves very simple and pleasant to have upon the table. Yours, in haste,

Elqise.

EARLY LUNCHEON'S.

LETTER No. IV.

My dear Friend, — L feel perfectly satisfied with the manner in which you have classified my receipts respecting the breakfasts, and. I must say I felt very much interested in looking over them ; I am confident they would prove interesting and instructive to any young housekeeper ; I hope, there- fore, you will preserve the originals, as I do not keep any copies, fearing they would confuse me by mailing reference to them; so that, if at any future time I should make a repetition in other series, you would be able to correct me, for I am as willing as yourself that we should complete our. work by going through every series comprising meals of the day.

The next meal, then, to breakfast, in the ordinary course of events, is the luncheon. Although it is a meal we never touch ourselves, I am aware many small families make it a regular one, so our little journal would not be com- plete without some few remarks, which I intend making as short and concise as possible. When we were in business, our luncheons were comprised of any cold meats which were cooked for previous dinners ; if a joint of cold roast

28

EARLY LUNCHEONS.

or boiled meat, it requires to be nicely trimmed before making its appearance at table, but reserving the trimmings for hash, if of roast meat, or bubble and squeak, if salt beef, which is an excellent method of disposing of the remainder of a joint to advantage ; if the joint happened to be cold veal, I used to send for a plate of ham to serve with it, unless there was a piece of bacon also left ; if mutton, I used to dish up the leg with a pretty little paper frill upon the knuckle, also trimming the joint lightly, for you must be aware that, after four or five have dined from a leg of mutton, its appearance becomes quite spoiled, and looks blackish when cold. Pork I also serve the same ; when parsley was cheap, I always laid a few branches round it, which used, as my visitors said, to make the meat look very refreshing and inviting. Our only addition was sometimes the remainder of game, which at that time used frequently to be presented to us — pheasants, partridges, or grouse ; as it would then have been very extravagant to have purchased them, especially when they were so expensive. As an accompaniment to the meat, I always kept two different sorts of mixed pickles, good bread, butter, cheese, and a glass of excellent table ale ; or, if our guest was some bosom friend or good customer, a bottle of sherry (not decantered), never any port, thinking that more fit for the dinner-table. Such was my plan in the first five years after my marriage : everything upon our table was of the first quality, and every one used to admire the neatness with which the table was laid out.

My method now, when luncheon is required (as we do not dine until half- past five o’clock, Mr. B. being engaged until four in the city), I have the cloth laid at twelve, and lunch at half-past ; and that time being just after the nursery dinner, we generally have some sort of pudding or tart, made at the same time with theirs. For cold meat, I always serve that up which has been left from a previous dinner, if any, or any remains of poultry, game, ham, or tongue. When, however, we have six or eight friends from the country, at Christmas, I feel proud to show them my style of doing things well and economically, for they are very intelligent people, and can ap- preciate good living, though at home they really live too plain for their incomes ; but they say, “ We do not understand how it is that you make a nice little dish almost out of nothing.” For should I have the remnants of any poultry or game not very inviting to the sight, I generally cut it up and show my cook how to hash it in a variety of ways ; and I always remark, that they never partake of any cold meat whilst any of the hash remains. For the methods of making various hashes of fowl, game, hare, rabbit, beef.

THE NURSERY DINNER.

29

mutton, as also curries, minced veal and poached eggs, cold pies of game, poultry, mutton, beefsteak, or pigeon, as also plain mutton cutlets, steaks, and broiled bones, the whole of which may be served for luncheon, I must refer you to the series of receipts belonging to the dinner ; any of these articles are placed in order upon the table, with the pickle-stand, two different cruet-sauces, orange marmalade, potatoes, butter, cheese, sherry and port wines. This style of luncheon, will no doubt surprise you, but I can assure you it scarcely increases my expenditure, having the same num- ber to provide for daily, so that the luncheon is generally made up from the remains of dinner, and the remains of luncheon will dine our three servants at half-past one. In the summer, I introduce a few dishes of fruit, and less meat ; and when there are several ladies, I often introduce some English- made wine, which once I used to make myself, but which I can now buy cheaper.

THE NURSERY DINNER.

LETTER No. Y.

Dear Friend,— Now here I must call your especial attention to the way many people treat this department of domestic comfort, which is often very slight and irregular. Now, for my part, I have made quite a study of it, and could prove that health is always dependent on the state of the digestive organs ; and that, if you should improperly treat young stomachs, by over or under supplying their wants, or using them to ill-cooked food, you not only destroy the functionary coating of the stomach, but also impede the develop- ment of the intellect. It is, then, as much a science to manage the food of children, as to cater for the palate of the gourmet, and I shall always con- sider that good food is to the body what education is to the mind.

My plan of managing the nursery meals is as follows At eight o’clock m the morning, which was my usual time, I used myself to prepare that glutinous food upon which our ancestors and race were first reared, rather unclassically denominated pap. My method was very simple :

49. Put two ounces of rusk, or tops and bottoms, in a small saucepan, with just sufficient water to moisten them; set the saucepan upon the fire until its contents are thoroughly warm through; pour a little of the water away,

30

THE NURSERY DINNER.

if too thin, pressing the rusk "with a spoon: then add a teaspoonful of krown sugar, and beat the w hole vvitli a spoon until quite a pulp; it is then ready for use.

I have seen some poor people in the country make .it with a stale piece of bread, previously well dried and lightly toasted before the fire, and you could scarcely tell the difference from rusks - and you must observe, that people in a country village cannot always supply themselves with everything in the way of luxury ; but look at the greater part of those countiy urchins, —are they not a real picture of health? for, after all, nothing is more ad- vantageous to a delicate child than countiy air and country food. When Mr. B. and myself were staying at Boulogne for a few weeks, I wasastonished to hear that everybody used to put their children out to nurse. I was so surprised, that I made every inquiry, and found it literally true ; that even respectable tradespeople sent their children a mile or two out m the country, some to the houses of very poor people : I cannot say that I approve of such a style of bringing up infants, but even there they seem as healthy and as joyful as possible. I also found there something to be learned, and that was, how to make French pap, which I think very nutritious, but which I con- sidered at the time rather heavy for our climate ; but having afterwards made a trial of it upon our little Henry, I found him doing so extremely weff, that I continued feeding him upon it for nearly eight months, until he was old enough to eat other food. The following is the receipt :

50. FRENCH PAP. — Put a tablespoonful of flour into a pap saucepan, to which add by degrees two gills ol milk, mixing it into a very smooth batter with a wooden spoon; place the saucepan upon the fire, let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred the whole time, or it is liable to burn 01 become brown, then add about half an ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it into a basin, and it is ready for use. A little butter is also very good in it.

You wiU observe, that it is more difficult and troublesome to make than our pap; but when used to it you will expend no more time over it; an as the French people say, cooking is all pleasure and no trouble 1 ut v la convinces me that it is more palatable and nutritious is, that I have .ee a very robust man make a hearty dinner of two plates of it, by intro- ducing bread in it. I have no doubt that our own hasty pudding was taken

THE NURSERY DINNER.

31

from it, for tlie use of children of three or four years old, being thought too heavy for infants. These long details may appear rather insignificant and tedious to you, but I leave them to your good judgment, begging of you to curtail my remarks should you think proper ; but, although you may con- sider that every person is acquainted with these domestic habits, you would find upon inquiry that very many persons neglect them almost entirely. Having written thus much upon the food of infants, we must next consider the proper diet for children of twelve months old, commencing with bread and milk.

51. BREAD AND MTLIv. — Cut about two ounces of any white bread into small thin slices, and put them into a small basin, or a large breakfast cup, in a little saucepan (only used for that purpose) have half a pint of milk ; when upon the point of boiling, pour over the bread; cover over the cup five minutes, and it is ready for use.

I much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk together. In first commencing to feed a child upon the above, I always added a little sugar, which I withdrew by degrees, as I do not like to accustom children to too much sweets, as it inclines them when a little older to be always wanting or eating sweet stulf, which often spoils the best set of teeth ; and here let me remark, that the finest fortune you can give to your children is health, and as loving mothers, whilst we have them under our control, it is our duty to study their little comforts, and direct their -first steps in life in the road to happiness.

52. PORRIDGE. — When children are delicate, por- ridge is often preferable to bread and milk. Put two tablespoonfuls of Scotch grits or oatmeal in the milk sauce- pan, which moisten with half a pint of milk; let it boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, add a small piece of butter and a little sugar, and it is ready for use.

TV hen my children were about eighteen months or two years old, I used to give them a little tender meat, such as boiled mutton, and broth, but in very small quantities, keeping still for the general food the bread and milk and porridge ; but now they are old enough to eat anything wholesome (one being nine and the other ten years of age), their meals are composed thus :

32

THE NURSERY DINNER.

53. Bread and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was composed as follows throughout the week: roast mutton and apple pudding, roast beef and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with tur- nips, after which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little salt beef, with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or pease pudding; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea (the receipts for which will be found in the series entitled Comforts lor Invalids).

YVlien in business, tlie first three years we could not afford to keep a nur-

sery in fact, we had no room to spare ; the children then used to dine with

us at one, but at a side-table with their nurse.

5.4. They then had a little plain meat, cut small in their plates, with potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, alter which, three times a week, plain rice, bread, or other plain pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart; and, at five o’clock, their bread and milk again, previous to going to bed.

But if for people who could afford it, I should recommend the following diet-table, for nursery-maid and all :

55. ROAST MUTTON FOR CHILDREN.— First, •about two pounds of mutton, well-cooked, but with the real gravy of the meat in it, which will require about one hour before a moderate fire, dredge it ten minutes before beimr done ; when taken up and in the dish, sprinkle a little° salt over the meat, and pour over three or four spoon- fuls of hot wrater to make a little light gravy.

Many persons will, I am aware, quite disapprove of this system of washing the meat, they would serve it as if it were for full-grown people, but you well know what would do for children as well as I-plain, simple, and wholesome food ; I always carried out this system, and I now make my cook do the

same.

5(5. Then the next day I would give them a small piece of mutton, plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tail,

THE NURSERY DINNER.

33

or a few slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on purpose, after which a very plain currant pudding; or, occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but very -well boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change, either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings ; in case of illness, and with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c., for which refer to the Receipts for Invalids.

Now the more I write the more I am convinced that, for the method of preparing certain articles for the children’s dinners, we must refer to the kitchen department of receipts and receipts for invalids, especially as regards broth, meat, puddings, &c., or otherwise we should have too many repetitions; so that it will be better, upon the completion of the journal, to make refer- ences, either by numbers of receipt or page, more intelligible, and less confused.

Many people may, perhaps, imagine that there is too much variety of food for children ; but it is quite the contrary, for change of food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health, and, of course, with children, these changes must be effected with judgment, and their food administered in small quantities ; for you must observe when children are well brought up with regard to their meals, they possess extraordinary organs of digestion, the proof of which is that they require feeding oftener than a full-grown person, and never appear to be tired of eating.

Having here terminated my remarks upon the Nursery, I shall leave this scene of romp and confusion, to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room door, and carefully enter, ^ without noise, into the mournful abode of human suffering and captivity, in hopes that, by watching over the diet of its occupants, my small efforts may improve their comforts, and, by proper management, assist in their restoration to health. I shall therefore proceed to give some receipts, entitled Comforts for Invalids.

Nothing is to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for sick people, whose sense of taste is partially gone ; everything ordered by the doctors as food should be cooked in the greatest perfection, especially as all they require is so very simple, and easily done, it is unpardonable to do it badly, although I am sorry to say that this is too often the case, even in

D

34

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

many of our first hospitals and other public establishments, where they have provisions in abundance, and of the first quality.

Perhaps you may fancy I am too severe upon this delicate subject, but I can assure you that I have for years been in the habit of visiting some of these institutions for the sick, and can therefore speak with confidence. I have grieved often to see it, and have wished that they would follow a system I could lay down, but there are some people who will not change their style, however bad, for a better one, for the world.

Now I must here claim all your intelligence, for pointing out those receipts the accomplishing of which is most plain, and will insure success to those who may try to do them, and cause them to persuade others to follow their example. I therefore inclose the following. Yours, &c.

Hobtexse.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

57. MEAT. — The best meat as food for invalids is, in fact, that which is principally used, mutton and beef, lamb, if not too young (sweetbreads, I consider, ought oftener to be introduced), and calves’ feet or head, scalded and boiled until tender, are very nutritious; chickens, pigeons, partridges, are also very inviting. All the above- mentioned articles are easy of digestion, excepting perhaps the beef, which may require to be gently stewed until tender, if for a delicate stomach just ordered to take meat after a serious fit of illness.

58. PLAIN MUTTON BROTH.— Get one pound of scrag of mutton, break the bone with a chopper, vs ithout separating the meat, then put it into a stcwpan with tlnee pints of water and a salt-spoonful of salt ; boil gentl\ two hours, carefully removing all the scum and fat, which is easily done by allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of the five ; it will be by that time reduced to about one

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

35

quart, and is then ready to serve. This broth cannot be expected to drink very palatable, being deprived of vege- tables and seasoning, it is in fact more like a beverage than a soup : at the commencement of convalescence more strength may be given if ordered by the doctor, by reducing the original quantity to one pint. This broth is often administered by a spoonful only at a time.

59. SEASONED MUTTON BROTH.— Put the same quantity of mutton and water into your stewpan, add double the quantity of salt, and a half spoonful of brown sugar, a small-sized onion, very little celery, and one ounce of turnip ; set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil draw it to the side ; let it simmer gently two hours ; skim off all the scum and fat, pass it through a sieve, and use it when required. When finished, there ought to be remaining about a quart of broth ; but if by neglect it has boiled too fast, add more water, and set to boil for a quarter of an hour longer. When the patient is getting better, his medical man will probably order to be eaten a little of the meat, or even turnips, in which case serve them on a plate separately; should the meat not be re- quired by the patient, it is very excellent for a healthy pei son, with a few spoonfuls of onions or caper sauce, or even plain. If pearl-barley is required to be taken with the broth, put a table-spoonful of it in with the water when you first put it upon the fire, the whole will then be done together ; if the barley is to be eaten by the patient, take out the meat and vegetables, and skim off every spot of giease ; but if the barley is not required, pass the broth, as before, through a sieve.

00. MUTTON BROTI-I, (with variations.) With

Vermicelli. Having made your broth, and passed it through

D 2

36

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

a sieve, as before, put the meat and vegetables upon a plate, and the broth back into the same stewpan ; when boiling, if about a quart, add one or two tablespoonfuls of vermicelli, depending upon the strength of the patient s stomach; ten minutes’ boiling will be sufficient to cook vermicelli.

61. With Rice— One spoonful of best rice in the stew- pan, with mutton and water the same as the barley, as it is better for the rice to be in pulp than underdone.

62. With Semoulina. — Semoulina is very delicate and glutinous, and I am quite confident that the faculty would approve of it after a trial or two ; it is good in any kind of broth or milk for invalids, of very easy digestion, and having also the advantage of being tolerably cheap and quickly cooked ; proceed as directed for vermicelli.

63. With Arrow-root. — After having passed your broth, place it again into the stewpan to boil ; when boiling, put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root into a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill of cold broth, or half ditto of water ; then pour it into your boiling broth, which keep stirring with a spoon ; let it simmer ten minutes, and it is ready

for use.

64 VEAL BROTH, ( French method.) — The following is much recommended by French physicians :-Put one pound of veal from the knuckle, with but very little of the bone, into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt- spoonful of salt, place it over the fire to boil ; when boding, take off all the scum ; then add a small cabbage-lettuce and a few sprigs of chervil, if handy (this herb is now m greater use than ever, and may always be had lot a tnlle at Covent-garden Market); let simmer s ow } oi t\u

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

37

hours, it will then be reduced to about a quart ; pass it through a sieve, letting the meat drain, and it is ready to serve.

65. ANOTHER WAY, ( more palatable.) — Take the same quantity of veal as before, which cut into small dice (as you should cut all meat, if possible), put it into the stewpan, with a small pat of butter, half an onion, about the same quantity of carrot and turnip, a little celery, and a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon the fire, keeping the contents stirred, for about ten minutes, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a whitish glaze, then add three pints of hot water ; let the whole simmer one hour at the corner of the fire, skim well, pass it through a sieve, and use when required. This broth is most palatable and very digestible, but of course only to be given to the convalescent; it may be served with vermicelli, rice, arrow-root, and semoulina, as directed foi mutton broth.

66. ANOTHER WAY, {very Refreshing and Strength- ening.)— Put two pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan, with a calfs foot split, the bone taken out and chopped up, add three quarts of water, a good-sized onion, one leek, a piece of parsnip, and two salt-spoonfuls of salt (if allowed by the doctor, if not, the salt must be omitted), set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil, skim, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire four hours ; twenty minutes before passing, again skim off all the fat, and add ten large leaves of sorrel, or twenty small, one cabbage- lettuce, and a handful of chervil, and when done pass it through a sieve and it is ready for use. This broth is very cooling and nutritious when taken cold, as it is then quite a jelly; vermicelli, rice, &c., may be added when

38

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

served hot, and the veal and calf’s foot is very excellent, eaten with parsley and butter or sharp sauce ; but should the patient require any, it must be quite plain, with a little of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the foot.

The above also makes an excellent dinner soup, and if put in a cool place, will keep a week in winter and three days in summer.

67. SOYER’S NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF TEA.— Cut a pound of solid beef into very small dice, which put into a stewpan, with a small pat of butter, a clove, two button onions, and a salt-spoonful of salt, stir the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy, then add a quart of water, and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour, skim- ming off every particle of fat, when done pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth, as it frequently quite spoils its flavour.

The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove; the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming ; pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if required.

68. REAL ESSENCE OF BEEF.— Take one pound of solid beef from the rump, a steak would be the best, cut it into thin slices, which lay upon a thin trencher, and scrape quite fine with a large and sharp knife (as quiekh as possible, or the juice of the meat would partially soak into the wood, your meat thus losing much of its strength- ening quality), when like sausage-meat put it into a ^tev - pan or saucepan, and stir over the fire five or ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed through, then add a pint of water, cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, and let it

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

39

remain close to the fire or in a ■warm oven fox twenty minutes, then pass it through a sieve, pressing the meat with a spoon to extract all the essence.

I beg to observe that hei’e you have the real juice of the meat; but if wanted stronger, put only half instead ol one pint of water; seasoning may be introduced, that is, a little salt, sugai', and cloves, but no vegetables, as they would not have time to cook, thus leaving a raw, bad flavour.

69. PURE OSMAZOME, or ESSENCE of MEAT. — Take two pounds of the flesh of any animal or bird (the older the better for obtaining the true flavour), as free from sinew as possible, and mince it well; place it in a Florence oil-flask, and cork it; put this in a saucepan filled with cold water, leaving the neck uncovered; place it on the side of the fire until the water arrives at 160° Ffl.hr., at which temperature it must remain for twenty minutes; then remove it, and strain the contents through a tammie, pressing the meat gently with a spoon; should it require to be kept for some time, put the liquor in a basin or cup, which place in the saucepan; subject it to a boiling heat until it is reduced to the consistency of treacle, removing the scum; this, when cold, will become solid, and wall keep for any number of years. Osmazome is known under various names in different cookery books, as “ fumet,” “ essence,” &c., and is obtained in a different way, which causes the gelatine to be produced with the osmazome; but by the above plan the gelatine is left in the meat, and the osmazome and the albumen are ex- tracted ; the albumen is afterwards removed as the scum.

70. CHICKEN BROTH. — Put half a raw chicken into a stewpan, with a quart of water, a little leek and celery,

40

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

with a salt-spoonful of salt, and a few sprigs of parsley (if allowed); set the stewpan upon the fire; when boiling, skim well, and let simmer upon the corner for one hour; pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use.

The chicken would eat very nice with a little maitre- d’hotel sauce, or any other from that series would do for the parlour, that is, when the patient is not allowed to eat it.

For a change, chicken-broth in the following way is very nutritious; that is, after having passed the broth through a sieve, pour it back again into the stewpan, which place over the fire; moisten a teaspoonful of flour in a cup with a little cold broth or water, and when quite smooth, pour it into the broth whilst boiling, stirring quickly ; let simmer a quarter of an hour, and it is ready. Mutton or veal broth may also be varied the same.

71. EEL BROTH, (very strengthening.) — Take a small eel, which skin as described, and wash well, then cut it into slices, which put into a small saucepan, just covered with water, add a little salt, a few sprigs of parsley, two button onions, and a clove; let it simmer very gently until the eels are tender, when skim off all the fat, pass the broth through a very fine sieve into a cup, it is then ready to serve when required, but a spoonful only should be taken at a time.

A patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish, which being so much boiled, constitutes a lighter food than eels are in general; a little melted butter and parsley might be served with them.

72. LAIT DE POULE, ( French remedy for colds.) — This may be made from any of the foregoing broths, and for colds is excellent. Break a fresh egg, separate the

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41

white from the yolk, put the yolk in a basin, with a quarter of a gill of good cream or milk, which mix well with a spoon; have half a pint of broth boiling, which pour gra- dually over the egg and cream, mixing it (as you pour the broth) with a wooden spoon; it is then ready, and ought to be taken when going to bed, if only for a cold.

73. SWEET LAIT DE POULE. — This is also reckoned very good for a cold. Put two yolks of eggs into a cup, with two teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few drops of orange-flower water, or the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon grated, beat them well together for ten minutes, then pour boiling water gradually over, keep- ing it stirred until the cup is nearly full. Drink this very hot when in bed; I can strongly recommend it from experience.

/4. RIZ AU LAIT, or RICE MILK, is a very favourite food, or soup; in France many persons make their suppers of it, even when in a state of perfect health. Proceed as follows : — wash a tablespoonful of good rice in water, which drain and put into a stewpan, with a pint of milk, upon the fire, and when boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the rice is quite tender, but for invalids it must be in a pulp; sweeten with a little sugar, and it is quite ready.

75. RICE MILK, {seasoned.) — Proceed exactly as in the last, but when the rice is quite tender add an ounce of butter, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, and a .little salt, stir well together, and it is then ready ; this must neither be too thick nor too thin, but about the thickness of well- made gruel. In France they always add a few drops of orange-flower water, but that depends upon taste. These last two are very nutritious, especially after a long illness.

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COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

76. VERMICELLI AU LAIT. — Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling, add sufficient vermicelli to make it about the thickness of the last article ; it may be served quite plain if required, or seasoned as for the riz au lait, omitting the orange-flower water.

77. SEMOULINA AU LAIT.— Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling, add a tablespoonful of semoulina, stirring it gently, to prevent its becoming lumpy ; let it simmer twenty minutes, and serve either plain or seasoned, as for the riz au lait.

78. TAPIOCA AU LAIT. — Proceed exactly as in the last, but it will require rather longer to simmer before the tapioca is tender; and, by way of change, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a glass of white wine, if allowed by the doctor, or season as for the last.

79. ARROW-ROOT. — Put two teaspoonfuls of arrow- root, which mix gradually with enough water or milk, stirring it with a spoon, let it boil a few minutes, and if made with milk, add only a little butter, sugar, and salt, or serve plain; but if made with water, add the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon to boil with it; when done, add a glass of port or sherry, sugar, a little salt, and a small piece of butter, unless prohibited.

80. GRUEL. — Put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or prepared groats into a stewpan, and by degrees add a pint of water, mixing smoothly with a wooden spoon ; place it upon the lire, keeping it well stirred, until it has boiled a couple of minutes, then pour it into a basin, add half a salt-spoonful of salt, two teaspoontuls of brown sugar, and two ounces of butter, the latter especially; if for a

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cold in tlie chest even more than that quantity, should the stomach be strong enough to bear it.

Gruel when properly made, ought to adhere rather thickly to the back of the spoon, but not to be pasty ; it ought, likewise, to be eaten directly it is made, or it becomes thick and unpleasant to eat; if required plain, omit all the seasoning ; it might also be made with milk.

81. GRUEL FROM SCOTCH GROATS.— Proceed as above, but add rather more water, and boil a few minutes longer; many people prefer eating it with the rough groats in it, but if objectionable, place a small clean sieve over the basin you intend serving it in, pass the gruel through, and season as in the last. Some add spirits or wine; but that I should never recommend any one to do, unless by the doctor’s orders, and that would be very seldom, I should think, especially as regards spirits.

82. SAGO GRUEL. — Put two tablespoonfuls of sago into a small saucepan, which moisten gradually with a pint of cold water, set it over a slow fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather stiff and clear, similar to a jelly; then add a little grated nutmeg and sugar according to taste, and serve; half a pat of butter might also be added with the sugar, or it might be made with new milk, and a little salt added; a glass of wine in either case makes it more palatable.

} 83. ARROW-ROOT TRANSPARENT JELLY.— 1 ut a good teaspoonful of arrow-root into a basin, which mix smoothly with two spoonfuls of water, then add enough boiling water to make it about the consistency of starch, stirring all the time, pour it into a stewpan, and stir over the fire until it has boiled two minutes ; add a little cream, a small glass of wine, and a little sugar, and serve.

44

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

84. FRENCH PANADA ( for aged people, invalids , and children.) — Break a stale penny roll into a saucepan, in which pour just sufficient water to cover the bread, stir well over the fire, allowing it to boil five minutes, then add half a teaspoonful of salt, and two ounces of fresh butter, mix them, and take from the fire ; have one yolk of egg well beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of milk (if handy) or water, which pour into the panada, stirring very quickly for half a minute, it is then ready to pour into a basin and serve. Any common bread would do for panada, but would not eat so light as when made from a roll.

I knew a very aged lady in France who accustomed her- self to eat a basin of panada every night, a few minutes previous to going to bed, for a period of eighteen yeais, which will prove that, although very substantial in ap- pearance, it must be very easily digested.

Panada ought to be rather thicker than gruel, and may likewise be made of milk, but water is preferable, especi- ally for bilious people.

85. BARLEY WATER.— Put half a gallon of water into a very clean saucepan, with two ounces of clean (but unwashed) pearl-barley ; when boiling, carefully skim it with a tablespoon, and add half the rind of a small lemon, let it boil until the barley is quite tender ; sweeten with half an ounce of white sugar, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and use when required. The juice of half a lemon in some cases may also be introduced.

86. RICE WATER. — Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with a handful of clean rice (but not washed), place it upon the fire, and let boil gently until the lice is quite in a pulp, then pass it through a hair sieve into a

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jug, pressing as much of the rice through as possible, and when getting cold, sweeten moderately with honey, which will make it very palatable ; it should be drunk luke- warm.

87. A NEW DRINK. — Put half a gallon of water upon the lire, and when boiling, have ready four pippin apples (quite ripe), cut each apple into eight slices, without peeling them, throw them into the water, which keep boiling until the apples are quite soft, pass the water through a sieve, pressing the apples gently against the side of the sieve, but not rubbing them through, add enough honey to make it a little sweetish, and drink luke- warm.

Two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the same would be a great improvement. People in good health would much enjoy such drink, during the summer especially ; as also would poor people in the country, where apples are plentiful. Any kind of apples would suit, and brown sugar instead of honey, or even no su°-ar at all.

88. COOLING DRINK. — Bake four or six apples, without peeling them; when done and quite hot, put them into a jug, and pour over three pints of boiling water ; cover the jug over with paper, and when cold it is ready

f°i lise ’ a spoonful of honey or brown sugar added makes it very palatable.

89. ALMOND WATER. — Put five ounces of sweet and two of bitter almonds into a saucepan, with a pint of warm water, which set upon the fire, and, when boiling, strain them upon a sieve, take off their skins, and set them in spring water to cool, then dry them upon a cloth, pound

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COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

them in a mortar until very line, adding a few drops of water occasionally, to prevent their becoming oily, set a pint of syrup to boil, and throw in the mashed almonds ; boil altogether a minute, then set it at the corner to simmer for a quarter of an hour ; it is then ready to pass through a fine sieve for use. When required, add any quantity of cold water you please, and make it palatable according to taste or direction.

90. BARLEY LEMONADE. Put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small stewpan, with half a pint of water, which boil about ten minutes, or until forming a thickish syrup ; then add the rind of a fresh lemon and the pulp of two ; let it boil two minutes longer, when add two quarts of barley-water, from which you have omitted the sugar and lemon ; boil five minutes longer, pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, which cover with paper, making a hole in the centre to let the heat through ; when cold, it is ready for use ; if put cold into a bottle and well corked down, it would keep good several days.

BARLEY ORi\NGEADE is made the same way as above, substituting the rind and juice of oranges; the juice of a lemon, in addition, is an improvement, when taken as a refreshing beverage.

91. A REFRESHING BEVERAGE. — Slice two oranges and one lemon, which put into a jug, with two ounces of sugar-candy, over which pour one quart of boiling water ; stir it occasionally until cold, then drink it a little at a time, as often as ordered by the medical attendant. This drink is also very excellent for persons in health, especially in warm weather.

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9*2. RASPBERRY VINEGAR BEVERAGE.— Put two tablespoonfuls of raspberry vinegar into a cup, over which pour half a pint of boiling water ; when cold, use it as you may be instructed or when necessary ; any kind of fruit syrup would answer the same purpose, and be equally as good, that is, currants, cherries, strawberries, mulberries, &c.

93. A VERY STRENGTHENING DRINK. — Put a teacupful of pearl-barley into a saucepan, with three pints of cold water, the rind of a lemon, and a small piece of cinnamon ; boil the whole very gently until the barley becomes tender, then strain it through a fine sieve, and sweeten with a spoonful of treacle : if treacle should be objectionable, honey or sugar will do.

94. FRESH FRUIT WATER. — Fresh fruits, when in season, are very preferable to syrups, which are but seldom well made, except at some of the first confectioners or Italian warehouses.

Pick a pottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries, which- ever you may require, rub them through a sieve into a basin, which mix well with half a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a quart of spring water ; pass it through a fine hair sieve, and put it by in a jug for use : both the syrup and water may either be increased or diminished according to taste.

Red or white currant icaters are made precisely the same, only omitting the lemon, the currants themselves being sufficiently sharp.

95. CHERRY DRAUGHT. — Choose a pound of good fleshy cherries, from which take the stalk and stones; have

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COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

a pint of syrup boiling, into which throw them, to boil as fast as possible for ten minutes ; then take them from the fire, and add a good wine-glassful of Madeira or sherry, and a quart of boiling water; put it into a jug, with a cup over ; when cold, pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use. The wine may be omitted if not re- quired. A drink of the same description may likewise be made from mulberries, but then a little lemon-juice must be added.

96. ARROW-ROOT WATER. — Put half a gallon of water to boil with two apples, the same as in No. 87, with the addition of a stick of cinnamon ; let the whole boil half an hour, then mix two large spoonfuls of arrow-root with half a pint of cold water, very smoothly, and pour it into the boiling water : let the whole boil ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve ; when cold, it will drink light and full.

97. FRENCH HERB BROTH. — This is a very favourite beverage in France, as well with people in a state of health as with invalids, especially in the spring, when the herbs are young and green. Put a quart of water to boil, but have previously prepared about forty leaves of sorrel, a cabbage-lettuce, and ten sprigs of chervil, the whole well washed ; when the water is boiling, throw in the above, with the addition of a teaspoonful of salt, and half an ounce of fresh butter ; cover your sauce- pan close, and let them simmer a few minutes, then pass it through a sieve or colander. This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring of the year, after the change horn winter. I generally driiik about a quart per day lor a week, at that time ; but if for sick people, it must be made less strong of herbs, and taken a little warm. To prove that

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it is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct which teaches clogs to eat grass at that season of the year. I do not pretend to say that it would suit persons in every malady, because the doctors are to decide upon the food and beverage of their patients, and study its changes, as well as change their medicines.

93. DRA PLUM BEAERAGE. — Put a quart of water in a saucepan upon the fire, and, when boiling, throw in twelve fresh dry French plums, and let them boil twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin with the liquor to cool ; when cold, take out the plums, which put into a basin ; add two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a very small quantity of port wine. They are excellent to eat, and the liquor to drink.

99. FIGS AND APPLE BEVERAGE. — Have two

quarts of water boiling, into which throw six fresh dry figs, previously opened, and two apples, previously cut into six or eight pieces each; let the whole boil together twenty minutes, then pour them together into a basin to cooi, and pass through a sieve, drain the figs, which will also be good to eat.

00. EWED PLUMS. — Put twelve French plums in a stewpan, with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a little cinnamon, and some thin rind of a lemon - let them stew twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin until cold, take them from their syrup and eat them dry

They are sometimes stewed in wine and water, either port, sherry, or claret.

101. BAKED APPLES are very much used by invalids Have a common yellow dish, such as you frequently see

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COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

in farmhouses, into ■which put about twelve apples (pre- viously well wiped) and about a gill of water, and put them in a hot oven for halt an hour, or rather moie should the apples be large ; when well done, take them out to get cold upon the dish, and eat them cold, either with powdered lump or moist sugar.

102. COOLING LEMONADE.— Put a quart of water in a stewpan to boil, into which put two moist dried figs, each split in two; let it boil a quarter 01 an horn, then have ready the peel of a lemon, taken oil rather thickly, and the half of the lemon cut in thin slices ; throw them into the stewpan, and boil two minutes longer; pom it into a jug, which cover closely with paper until cold, then pass it through a sieve : add a teaspoonful of honey, and it is ready for use.

103. IMPERIAL, ( a Cooling Drink for the Spring.) — Two ounces of cream of tartar, two lemons (juice and peel), four ounces of sugar; place in a stone jug, and pour about six quarts of boiling water ; allow it to get cold, and bottle for use. Or, instead of sugar, add three table- spoonfuls of raspberry vinegar, and six ounces of honey. This is excellent aerated like soda water. Essence of ratafia, or any other, may be added, with about half a pint of pure spirit at proof, for those accustomed to spirits.

104. ORANGEADE.— Proceed as for lemonade, but using "the whole of the orange, a little of the peel included, sweetening with sugar-candy, and adding a teaspoonful oi arrow-root mixed with a little cold water, which pour into the boiling liquid at the same time you put m the orange. The arrow-root makes it very delicate.

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Toast and Water. — Tlie facility of making this popular drink is probably the cause of its not being well made one time in ten, that is, in private families ; the bread is too much or too little done, or there is too much or not half enough water, or more or less bread ; I venture to say that if any person would take the trouble to go from house to house, where there are patients, and taste toast and water at each, they would not find two of the same flavour, and perhaps not any of it properly made. To make it to per- fection, proceed as follows : —

105. TOAST AND WATER.— Cut a piece of crusty bread, about a quarter of a pound in weight, place it upon a toasting-fork, and bold it about six inches from the fire; turn it often, and keep moving it gently until of a light yellow colour, then place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate colour, put it into a jug, and pour three pints of boiling water over; cover the jug until cold, then stiain it into a cleau jug, and it is ready for use: never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation in a short time. I would almost venture that such toast and water as I have described would keep good a considerable time in bottles.

The ideca that bread must be burnt black to make toast and water is quite a popular delusion, for nothing nourishing could come from it : if your house were burnt to ashes, it would be valueless ; and the same with burnt bread, which merely makes the water black, but the nutriment of the bread, in- tended to relieve the chest, has evaporated in smoke by being burnt.

PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS.

106. APPLE AND RICE PUDDING— Boil half an ounce of Carolina rice in a gill of milk until very tender, then add a very small piece of butter, sugar, a little cinna- mon, and a grain of salt ; then peel, core, and slice a middling-sized apple, which put into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, a little sugar, and a drop of water and stew it until tender ; when done, put the apple in a

E 2

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small tart-dish, mix an egg with the rice, which pour over the apple, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven ; it may also be made quite plain, if preferred.

107. CUSTARD PUDDING.— Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a bay-leaf, for three minutes ; then pour these on to three eggs, mix it with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it into a buttered mould : steam it twenty-five minutes in a stewpan with some water (see No. 115), turn out on a plate and serve.

108. RICE PUDDINGS.— Wash well two ounces of rice in some water, strain, then put it into a pint and a half of boiling milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel, cinna- mon, and half a bay-leaf tied together; let it boil gently, stirring it occasionally until quite tender ; then put to it one ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoon- ful of sugar, and two eggs ; pour it into a buttered tart- dish, and bake it half an houi.

L09. MACARONI PUDDING. — Blanch two ounces of Naples macaroni in some water for eight or ten minutes ; strain it, and add it to one pint of boiling milk, in which you have previously boiled a piece ol lemon-peel, cinna- mon, and one ounce of butter; when the macaioni is quite tender, add two eggs and sugar enough to sweeten it : steam it one hour in a stewpan, in a buttered tart-dish.

110. VERMICELLI PUDDING.— Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel, half a bay-leaf, and a piece of cinnamon, then add one ounce of vermicelli; when reduced to half, add two eggs, and a little sugar ; pour these in a buttered mould, and steam it half an houi.

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111. TAPIOCA PUDDING. — Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel and a little cinnamon; then add two ounces of tapioca ; reduce to half ; add two eggs, and one ounce of butter; pour these in a buttered mould, and steam half an hour.

112. BREAD PUDDING. — Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel ; pour it on two ounces of bread-crumbs ; then add two eggs, half an ounce of currants, and a little sugar : steam it in a buttered mould for one hour.

113. CABINET PUDDING. — Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of lemon-peel, pour it on one ounce of sponge biscuit, let it soak half an hour, then add three eggs, half an ounce of currants, and very little sugar : steam it in a buttered mould, lined with raisins, one hour.

114. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.— Butter a tart-dish well, and sprinkle some currants all round it, then lay in a few slices of bread and butter ; boil one pint of milk, pour it on two eggs well whipped, and then on the bread and butter ; bake it in a hot oven for half an hour.

115. A SMALL BREAD PUDDING. — Cut an ounce of the crumb of bread into thin slices, with the least piece of butter spread over each, which place in a small tart- dish ; then break an egg into a cup, with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, beat well; then add about six tablespoontuls of boiled milk, mix well together, pour over the bread, and bake in a slow oven, or steam it, if preferred, by standing the dish in a stewpan containing about half a pint of water, — that is, the water should be about half way up to the rim of the dish ; set the stewpan

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COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

(covered close) upon the fire, and let it slowly boil about ten minutes or longer, until the pudding is properly set, then take the cover from the stewpan, which let remain a few minutes longer upon the fire; then take out the pud- ding, wipe the dish, and serve.

FISH FOR INVALIDS.

Slips, soles, flounders, wAitings, and smelts are the lightest of any fish, and upon that account more to be recommended to invalids in a state of convalescence.

116. WHITING, PLAIN BOILED.— Put two quarts of water into a small fish kettle, with about an ounce of salt ; when boiling, put in the whiting, draw the kettle to the corner of the fire to keep it just simmering, and no more ; a whiting of the ordinary size would take about ten minutes ; when done, which you can tell by trying with the point of a knife whether it leaves the bone easily, take it up carefully, and dish it upon a clean napkin, with a few sprigs of parsley (if at hand) round; although the parsley is of course useless, as far as the stomach is con- cerned, nothing can be more pleasing to an invalid than to see his meals carefully cooked, and invitingly ser1* ed.

At any time, I prefer a whiting with the skin on, whether boiled, grilled, or fried; a little butter just melted, with a pinch of salt, and the least drop of lemon- juice added, makes a very excellent sauce for them. Should you purchase your fish in the country, it will of course require cleaning, by opening the belly, and pulling out the gills and interior; but never wash these fish; merely wipe them with a cloth.

117. BROILED WHITING.— Having cleaned your whiting, and wiped it gently dry with a cloth, floui it all

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over lightly, rub the gridiron over with a little oil, lay the whiting upon it, and put it over a clear fire, but not too close, turn it carefully three or four times, and when it feels firm to the touch of the finger, it is done ; if a large one, it will take about twenty minutes ; sprinkle a little salt over, if required, and serve with plain melted butter, with a few drops of essence of anchovies in it.

118. SAUTEED WHITINGS.— Put some fat or butter in a frying-pan, which place over a clear but moderate fire ; have your whiting floured as in the last, and when the fat or butter is melted, lay it in the pan; let it saute slowly until it is done, which try as in either of the last two ; when done, drain it upon a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve.

If fried, enveloped in bread-crumbs, dip the fish lightly into flour, then egg it all over with a paste brush, and dip in some very fine bread-crumbs, and fry it rather longer, but do not let the fat get black, or it will give the fish a black heavy appearance, and quite spoil the flavour. Fish fried in oil would have a much better appearance than when fried in fat, but probably would be objectionable to a weak stomach. They ought to be completely covered with the fat.

119. SMALL SOLES or SLIPS maybe either boiled, broiled, or fried, as directed for whitings, requiring about the same time to cook ; serve precisely the same.

Smelts are very delicate fisli, but ought never to be plain” boiled ; being confident of the good use they may be turned to as a diet for the sick, I shall here give two receipts for dressing them very plainly, yet still very palatably.

120. SMELTS. — Choose them rather large, — if so, two would be sufficient for a meal, — having previously drawn

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and cleansed them, put a gill of water into a small stew- pan, with a little salt, a saltspoonful of powdered sugar, and four small sprigs of parsley ; when boiling, lay in your smelts, which let simmer five minutes, or more, if larger than usual, keeping the stewpan well covered ; then take them out carefully, lay them upon a dish, and pour the broth over ; both fish and broth are excellent. They may be cooked the same way in the oven.

Another way is to add a little arrow-root, mixed with a drop of cold water, to the above, when half cooked ; it makes it very soothing to the chest. Be extremely careful not to let the fish or liquor burn at the bottom of tbe stew- pan ; there should be about three parts of the quantity of liquor when cooked as you first put in water, allowing one quarter to evaporate wdiilst boiling.

121. BROILED SMELTS. — When cleansed and wiped dry with a cloth, dip them lightly into flour, and put them upon a gridiron over a slow fire, for five or six minutes, turning them carefully when half done ; serve plain, or with a little sauce, if allowed, as many patients are forbidden moist food. I can highly recommend any kind of white fish cooked in this manner ; and it is well known that nothing in the way of food is more digestible than fish.

Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also be served to invalids, by proceeding the same as above.

MEAT FOR INVALIDS.

Meat, Game, and Poultry.— These} of every kind, for invalids, ought to be served as free from fat as possible.

122. A MUTTON CHOP.— Choose one from a lean loin of mutton, or if one in the house rather fat, cut the

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greater part of it off; your chop should be about six ounces in weight, and cut of an equal thickness ; lay it upon a table, and beat it lightly with the flat part of your chopper, then lay it upon a gridiron, over a good clear fire ; season with a little salt, if allowed, and turn it four or five times whilst broiling ; it will require about eight minutes over a good fire, but of course longer over an indifferent one ; if by pressing it with a knife it feels firm, it is done ; serve upon a very hot plate, for if partly cold, the least fat would immediately set, and be very unpleasant, especially to a person unwell.

123. PLAIN MUTTON CUTLET, from the Neck. — An invalid will frequently be tired of a mutton chop ; and for my own part I must say a cutlet is far superior in flavour, and has a much neater appearance; cut off a rib from the neck, of the same thickness as a mutton chop ; cut away the skin upon each side of the bone, to the chine, which chop off ; trim away the greater part of the fat, cut a piece at the end of the bone, which scrape off, leaving about half an inch of the bone bare ; then beat it lightly with the flat of the chopper ; season ; broil and serve very hot, as in the last.

124. STEWED CPIOP or CUTLET.— Put it into a stew pan or small saucepan, with a pint of water, and a little salt and sugar; let it stew as gently as possible from an hour and a half to two hours, skim off all the scum and fat, and the patient may partake of both chop and broth ; it seasoning is allowed, put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley, with a little celery, leek, and turnip, cut up very small, into the stewpan with the water, when you first put the chop on, and proceed as before ; serve the broth in a soup basin, with the chop in it ; should the meat happen to be

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tough, let it stew rather longer. The broth should be reduced to about half a pint.

125. BEEF or RUMP STEAK.— The tenderest part of the rump should be selected, about half a pound, not cut too thick, and very even: place it upon your gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it frequently ; when done, sprinkle a little salt over. Ten minutes would cook it thoroughly, but if wanted underdone, as in many cases where the patient only sucks the gravy, less time must be allowed.

126. STEWED BEEF.— Put the same quantity of beef as in the last into a saucepan, with a quart of water, which place over the fire, and when beginning to boil, well skim ; then add a little celery, turnip, and carrot, the whole weighing about an ounce, and cut very small ; let stew gently about three hours, by which time the broth will b^ reduced to one quarter ; skim all the fat ofi carefully ; serve the meat upon a plate, and the broth in a basin.

127. LAMB CHOPS or CUTLETS. — Proceed as just described for mutton, but being more delicate, they will require little more than half the time to cook.

128. LAMB’S FEET are very nutritious; purchase them ready cleaned ; lay them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which you will be able to draw out the leg-bone with facility ; then put them in a stewpan (two would be sufficient), and pour over a pint of water with which you have mixed smoothly a tablespoouful of llour, and half a teaspoonful of salt ; place them upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, then add a small onion, with celery, parsley, and parsnip ; boil gently for two

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hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a little melted butter and parsley poured over. By using a little white broth from any meat instead of water, you make a delicious soft soup, which may be partaken of freely.

Calves’ feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a double proportion of everything, and stewing them double the time ; they are served precisely the same.

POULTRY FOR INVALIDS.

L29. ROAST CHICKEN. — Procure a nice plump chicken, which draw and truss, and cut the sinews ; pass the spit through under the skewer as usual, and set it down before a clear lire : after being there five minutes, have ready a pat of butter, in the bowl of a wooden spoon, with which rub the chicken all over ; if the fire is too fierce, put it back a short distance, that it may roast of a yel- lowish-brown colour; when a light smoke arises from the chicken, which will be in about twenty minutes from the time it is put down, it is done ; but to be quite sure whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly with your finger and thumb ; should it feel quite set, it is sufficiently cooked.

130. BOILED CHICKEN. — Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of butter ; when boiling, lay in the chicken, which keep gently simmering for twenty minutes, when it will be done.

By adding a few vegetables of each description to the water, and straining it when you take out the chicken, you have a very excellent broth either for the sick or healthy,

CO

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

especially if, after skimming off the fat, you add a little vermicelli, which must be boiled in it five minutes.

As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the whole of a chicken at once, I have annexed a few receipts, by which a chicken would suffice for four meals.

First, put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with half a pint of light broth ; let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp, then put in the wing or leg of the previously- cooked chicken, which let remain to warm about five minutes ; should the rice be too dry, add a little more broth; serve the fowl and rice together upon a hot plate. Secondly, if wanted plain, set it in a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock, and let it warm gently. Thirdly, it may be folded in a sheet of paper lightly oiled, and warmed very gently upon a gridiron ; and, Fourthly , plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little light gravy.

131. PARTRIDGE. — Proceed in every manner to roast as just directed for the chicken ; a young one would re- quire about ten minutes, or an old one fifteen, but then the breast only ought to be eaten ; whatever remains may be served in either of the ways directed for chickens.

132. PIGEONS may be roasted the same as partridges, but would not require so long. A pigeon may also be stewed as follows : — Put half a pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan, with a pigeon trussed as for boiling, let it stew gently twenty minutes, if young ; both the pigeon and broth ought to be partaken of. Pigeons may also be broiled, by cutting them open from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the wings, but not separating them ; iub over with a little butter, broil twenty minutes over a moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy.

COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.

61

133. LARKS are also very excellent and light food; when cleaned, pass a thin wooden skewer through three or four of them, as many as are required, then broil them a few minutes over a sharp fire, and serve very hot. You will find them superior broiled than roasted, and not so much trouble.

134. PULLED FOWL. — With the remainder of a roast or boiled fowl or chicken you may make a very light dish, by pulling off all the flesh with a fork, and putting it into a stewpan, then in another stewpan place all the bones (previously broken small with a chopper), with a little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a pint of water ; let it boil gently until the water has reduced to a gill, then strain it over the flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan, which place over the fire until quite hot, and serve ; should it be too thin, a small piece of butter and flour rubbed together may be added, and boiled a miuute. Old or young fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient to get a young fowl, especially in the country, where everything must be turned to account and properly used : you would proceed with an old fowl the same as for a chicken, but stewing it three times as much, and adding more water in proportion; it would be here impossible to name the exact time required, as the fluctuation is so great, but by feeling the thigh of the fowl with the finger and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done sufficiently it will feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with ease.

02

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

LETTER No. VI.

Dearest Eloise, — I here inclose yon the last receipt which I intend to give you for invalids. You may, no doubt, fancy that my diet is extravagant ; but let me teach you that when we must pay the doctor’s bill, which I con- sider an extra and painful tax upon humanity, it is ours and their duty to try to restore health as soon as possible, and my receipts, if well coupled with the science of a medical man, cause a prompt restoration to health; they will have the desirable effect of increasing the butcher’s bill by diminishing that of the doctors. I must also tell you that I intend this part of our little work, if ever published, to be useful to all classes of society, and that among these receipts, the humble as well as the rich may partake the benefit of them by selecting either according to their means and requirements; and I am confident that you will agree with me that I have closely studied the rules of economy.

I shall now, therefore, close the sick-room door, and open the one of the parlour, to witness the merry faces of the million who have abandoned their industrious occupations for the week, to partake, in the family circle, their simple but substantial Sunday meal. When parents of families are blessed by an increase of business according to that of their family, it is there that you will find genuine domestic happiness and natural love ; and let me tell you, dearest, that the sight of a Sunday’s dinner in a tradesman’s house in England is worthy of being depicted by the pencil of the most meritorious artists of the age, and would not disgrace that of a Wilkie, Goodall, or Ab- slom. Behold, sitting around an inviting table four or five of those healthy and generally handsome faces of the young children of Albion, waiting, until after the usual blessing has been invoked by the eldest, with the greatest anxiety to know who is to be the first served, trying to open their eyes as large as their appetites, at the disappearance of a cover removed by a clean country servant, who exposes to their view the immortal piece of roast beef, from which a most excellent exhalation escapes as from a crater of happiness, and which seems to fill the room as well as the hearts of the whole party with joy ; and the yet greater anxiety of the still younger branches of the family, who have cunningly reserved their infantine appetites for the appearance of the gi and national dish, more pleasing to their fancies, th eplum pudding, to which, for the occasion, a few spoonfuls of brandy have been poured on the

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

63

dish, and set on fire the moment of placing it before the mother, who hurries to serve them, in the hope of putting a stop to the unmusical domestic harmony of the little ones, who do not fear to bum their mouths as long as they satisfy their appetites. Having now, dearest, given my full and due respect for the comfort of their Sunday’s dinner, I have in many instances had to complain of the way many of the industrious classes dine the remainder of the week. I always used to say, when in business, that he who works well deserves to live well, — I do not mean to say extravagantly, but that devoting one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be classified as a matter of business in regard to economy. We, therefore, must be very positive upon this im- portant question, and make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really unworthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours, whose provisions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to quantity and quality. Yours, &c. IIORTEXSE.

LETTER No. VII.

My dear Mrs. B. — Your observation upon the way many people live in this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if you were not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be more likely to suc- ceed in bringing our friends round to your style of management ? of which, for my part, I very much approve. But as it is a matter of importance, I should like you to describe in your next communication what are the prin- cipal and most useful joints in a family, and to discourse on them, in pointing out the good to be achieved, and the evils to be avoided.

Ever yours, &c. Eloise.

LETTER No. VIII.

Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs. L.

At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will show you how circmnsci'ibed the middle classes are in respect to the variation of their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking it. I do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a series or list of those provisions ; but, on the other hand, I must tell you frankly my opinion, it being a subject which for some years I have made a study, indeed quite a hobby. If I am wrong, let any one who knows better correct me ; you will allow I am always open to conviction and improvement, no matter how trifling, as it often leads to an important one.

64

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous, offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way, and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a few which are considered the best. They are as follow :

Those in Beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side, aitchbone.

In Mutton — leg, saddle, haunch, loin.

Lamb — fore-quarter and leg.

Veal — fillet, loin.

Pork— leg, sparerib, loin.

Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because gene- rally used, although many of the other parts are equally a3 good, as I shall prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write for the dinner, what can be done in the way of made dishes out of those parts which are rarely or never used 'in this country by the middle classes, which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on the subject. Besides, there is this advantage, that if a small tradesman were to follow these receipts, and buy every other time he goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint, he would not only be conferring a public benefit, but also one on himself, and be the means of diminishing the price of those now considered the first class, which at the present moment bear too high a price in proportion, but which his pride causes him to purchase.

To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over the in- closed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from beef, veal, mutton, lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the prime are in daily use to one of the other, and principally for a want of the knowledge of cookery, leaving the science of cooking our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away, after having absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu ; taste the broth and eat the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do not think that I object to our plain joint, because, now and then, I am rather partial to them : but why not manage to make use of the broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them, instead of galloping them at a special railway-train speed ? W ere the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic cooker}' of France, they would certainly live better and less expensively than at present; very often , four or five different little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday’s joint, instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman for several

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

65

days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle of variegated-coloured pickles, made with pyroligneous acid, which sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it, and balanced by a steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen through the parlour window by the customers in the shop, would make them think there was a grand gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.’s or B. s, the butterman or greengrocer ; this may be excusable once or twice, on a hot summer’s day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of that way of living in winter is, I consider, a domestic crime.

1 ou will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty, or more young men dine everyday, or even in public establishments still more nume- rous, many professed cooks would be required to dress the dinner, if my plan were adopted ; not at all, if the kitchen is properly constructed : but in these establishments, joints, of necessity, must be the principal viand, and there is very little left ; what there is, is consumed cold for supper ; but even there an amelioration might take place, although only a plain joint, either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled, which is generally the yearly bill of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well done, and often badly, which, in a large establishment, must create great waste, and make bad food out of good meat, and that for want of care or a little more knowledge, which may appear to you but a trifling matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with toothless gums and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls erected by the good feelings of government or by public charity. I have often thought, when visiting these establishments, that a professed cook ou<riit to be appointed, as well as a medical man, to visit all such in the metropolis not only to inspect the quality of the provisions, but superintend the arrange- ments of the dietary table, and see that the viands are properly cooked, and us correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day • I am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such institutions through- out the country, which, if well employed, would feed a great part of the starving poor of the United Kingdom. The same system ought to be adopted m all the provincial towns ; and, if it were in existence, we should not have to deplore such lamentable scenes winch we had latterly to witness at oo mg, wiere, no doubt, many were to blame; for by the calculation I

LTuowt; 1 “J th°Ugh ratll6r WaS enough

to aU„w for good provisions, and leave sufficient remuneration for any reason-

ble and not covetous man. Why should not these poor children be watched

F

66

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

over, and made as comfortable in every respect as tbe wish of those who pay to support them requires? besides, it has an effect upon after generations; for upon the food at the period of growth depends the nature of the min a a more advanced age, as well as the stature of the man. Do we not evince our care to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with the greatest atten- tion, the racehorse ? compare him with others of his species not so humanely treated, and note the difference : so it is with the human race ; an mig almost say the prosperity of a country depends upon the food of its you . You will perhaps think that I am rather sharp in my remarks, and probably longer than is required, but still it will be gratifying to both of us, should we find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as above mentioned ; and it is only by giving notoriety to these important deteds, and being positive in exposing the truth, that we can be believed and followed, and you must not mind displeasing the few, if you are to hb ^ many. S' or ever, &c.,

LETTER No. IX.

My dear Hortense, — I received your last observations, which, on first seeino- I thought too long, but after having read them over again, I am convinced that I shall not be able to shorten them ; at all events there is a CTeat deal of truth in them, and, as you justly say, they are the observations of a person who has constantly studied domestic comfort and economy,

shall therefore copy them in the journal just as you sent them to me

Truly yours, ELOisE.

LETTER No. X.

Mv dear Elo.se, -I am glad to tor that yon will not .Iter any of my

last remarks sent, heoans. I aamre JO« I wrote with a Ml conviction that I

“ „,1 ftl facts Which experience alone can engrave on the memory .

was right, and ; ^ , ** it ^ he necessary m alter

o^'i-tion, namely, in onto to save any e»too», to** 3

- ^ - *• done' on a

STiSC "—c Regenerator," hy which the most inc.

CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.

67

perienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner adapted for all classes, without committing a blunder, and thus make a selection from soups, different dishes of fish, and an innumerable number of removes ; entrees roasts, savoury dishes, vegetables, sweets, dessert, &c. ; and, having chosen one or two of each series, by referring to the receipt, an idea of their cost, within a few pence of the market-price, may be gained.

Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new idea, as it is rather deviating from our original plan ; but observe, that having so very distinctly giveli the Breakfast Receipts, and those also for Invalids, it wm be more clearly understood than by repeating the same over and over, w hich would be unavoidable, if we follow our first proposition.

Yours truly, in haste, Hortense.

LETTER No. XI.

ill- dear Hortense,— Never were you inspired by a better idea respecting your new plan ; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy our labour is over ; but I must tell you that, on the receipt of your last, I wrote to M. Soyer, to inquire if he would object to our taking a few hints from his “ Kitchen at

Home,” which forma the last part of his work. His answer was immediate, short, and as follows :

Dear Madam,— It would be entirely deviating from the preface of my ‘ Gastronomic Regenerator’ to refuse you anything in my power; and as your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome to take a

few hints if you require them for your little work, from the part entitled My Kitchen at Home/

Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam, most sincerely, your humble and devoted,

"Reform Club.” ,, . _

"A. Soyer.”

As you have his book, yon, no doubt, know to which part he alludes. He says, m his preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse ladies anything

m h18 P°Wer 5 S° far he has kePt his word with us : so you may, dearest if you require it, make use of his offer. I shall expect, by the next post the commencement of the Dinner Receipts, which I am confident you will make as simple and as short as possible. With kindest regards, yours,

F 2

Eioise.

68

BOASTING — BAKIN G .

Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, Sauteing, Broiling.

ROASTING being tlie most general in use, we will first describe it, although it is not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being evidently an improvement on broiling : we can easily understand how, in the primitive times, when man, finding that his food got covered with the ashes from the fire with which he cooked his meat, would invent a species m grate upon which he could raise the fire, and so cook his meat before it: this early mode of cooking has continued, in many countries, up to the preaen„ day, and even in London to within a few years; for I remember seeing in the old Goldsmith’s Hall, a fire-place, consisting of stages, on which was m the wood, and when the meat, &c„ was spitted and arranged before it, the wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits. (It was, no doubt, from arranging the wood thus in stages, that the name of range was derived.) n many noblemen’s castles and ecclesiastical establishments, dogs were kept to turn the spit, from whence we have those of the name of turnspit ; wlnlst m others, where there happened to be a person of a mechanical turn of nnnd. they applied a water-wheel to the purpose, and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen, which served as a reservon- for live fish Differen opinions exist as to the mode and time required for roasting but this mus all depend upon the nature of the fire and the meat In the Bece.pt. J --- he found the time which each requires. My plan is to make up as large foe as the nature of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near or not, as may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat.

BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the oldest is the least understood. (As I shallhaveto refer to this subject again, f the reason why in a future letter.) It is performed in various

kfods of air-tight ~ ^ S'

— \-z:

°f7£ -

& — u - - ** « - — * *•

BOILING — STEWING — BRAISING.

69

Receipts will be found the time required by each for baking, but, in a general way, for meat, hot ovens are the best ; for poultry, not so hot as meat ; and pastry, according to its kind. In using dishes or utensils for the oven, they ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized iron, and separate ones for meat and fish,

BOILING is the next branch of the art which is of the most importance and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, it is the most difficult ; this is a subject upon which, if I were to dilate, would occupy a good quarto volume ; it is one of those easy things which it is supposed everybody can do, and therefore no attention is paid to it, and it is generally done badly. According to the way in which it is done, meat may be rendered hard and tough, or tender, lose or retain its flavour or nourishment. Great difference of opinion exists amongst medical men which are the easiest of digestion — roasted or boiled meats. I say it is a subject quite impossible to decide, as it must depend upon the different constitutions and climate ; for we might as well say that the food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy ;

STEWING ought to be the best understood, on account of its economy; pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done, become tender, as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved : it should be done slowly, the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skimmed. Great cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for stewing.

BRAISING is the next and most important part of the art of cooking, and, like the saute, belongs entirely to the French school, from which it takes its name, braise being the remains of wood burnt in the oven, or live charcoal : this plan of cookery requires the action of the fire under and over the braising-pan, which is air-tight, in order that the aromatic flavour arising fi om its contents may be imbibed by the meat or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by epicures. The braise is put on the cover, N\hich, in some cases, is made deep on purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gastronomic society which was formerly in existence in Paris, whose object was to benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered a reward of a silver gridiron to any culinary artist who ’would discover a new mode of dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt, intended to be used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed his imagination to quite a different mode, and used the pan instead of the gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which was unanimously approved

70

FRYING.

of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicurean body, who awarded him the prize. The chief art in braising is to do it slowly, taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned, receipts for which will be found in their proper place.

FRYING. — Of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is none more so than that of frying, but yet how rare to meet with it done properly.

I believe it is to be attributed, in a great measure, to the idea that, to do it well is expensive. I have therefore made a series of experiments upon a plan such as may be followed in every private house, and I am convinced that to do it well is cheaper than doing it badly; but, in the first place, we ought to consider. What is frying? It is the insertion of any substance into boiling oil, or grease, by which the surface of that substance becomes carbonized, and the heat which effects this object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and gelatine, or, more commonly speaking, until cooked ; to do this properly, the substance ought to be covered by the liquid, so that the heat acts all over it at the same time, or otherwise the ozmazome, or gravy, will be dried out of that part which is not covered, and the succulence and flavour of the viand lost ; or, should the liquid not be of that degree of heat which would carbonize the surface on the moment of its immersion, it would then enter into the substance, render it greasy, and destroy its flavour, which no degree of heat afterwards could remedy. The articles which are to be fried are generally those which have a coating of materials (such as bread-crumbs and batter) which are quickly carbonized, and thus forms a crust which prevents the grease penetrating, concentrates the liquids, and preserves the flavour of the article; the carbonization once effected, the fire should be immediately moderated, particularly if the article is large, in order that the interior may become properly solidified. All articles properly fried are generally much liked, as they are agreeable to the eye, and afford a pleasing variety.

The plan that I recommend you to adopt is, to obtain an iron or coppei pan long enough for a good-sized sole, and 6 to 8 inches deep, and fill three to four inches of it with fet— the skimmings of the stock-pot, or, i t a s mu not be sufficient, the kidney fat of beef, cut up, melted, and strained. n wealthy establishments, lard, and, in some, bacon-fot melted is used, an , for some articles, olive oil, which can only be used once ; but in on. less luxurious homes I think the above is sufficient, besides, it has die advan a of not requiring that great attention which the other does. When you have the fat on, before immersing the substance you intend to n , see t

SAUTEING.

71

sufficiently hot by dipping your finger (not in the fat), but in a little water, and then hold it over the fat, so that a few drops go into it; if it spits and throws back the water, it is sufficiently hot ; or, throw in a small dice of bread and take it out immediately ; if it is firm or coloured, it is hot enough : or, in frying offish, before putting it in, lay hold of the head and dip the end of the tail, and, if it crisps it, then let the remainder go in. I have found, if due attention is paid to the pan to prevent it from burning, forty articles may be fried in it before it wants renewing ; and I am certain it will be found cheaper than the common way of putting a little fat into the frying- pan and turning the sole over and over, for you are then almost certain of sending the grease up to the table, where it is not wanted. When the fat is not used, it should be emptied, whilst hot, through a sieve, into an earthen pipkin, and covered with paper to prevent the dust going in it. For the purpose of frying, an iron wire-basket, with a handle, is used, in which the object to be cooked is placed, and thus inserted in the liquid. The cost of this instrument is trifling.

/

SAUTEING.- — You will perceive, dearest, by the following, that the word fried is often wrongly used in cookery instead of the word saute, which pro- cess is totally different, and produces quite another effect on food. Saute means anything cooked in a very small quantity of butter, oil, lard, or fat, on one side of the article at a time, whilst the other requires about a hundred times more of the above-named materials to cook properly. You will see, in these remarks, that it is not frying a pancake, omelette, or still less a chop, steak, or cutlet, but that they are sauteed ; and how to explain that word, to use it instead of the misapplied word fry, puzzles me considerably, as I am quite ignorant of its origin as regards its application to cookei-y. All the researches I have made in English and French Dictionaries and Encyclo- pedias, have not enlightened me in the least on the subject. In French, it means to jump, hop, skip, as understood by boys at school, or by the grass- hopper tribe, called in French sauterelles, from the word sauter, to jump. I well remember at our school we had a French emigre for a dancing-master, who used to get into a passion when we did not dance to his professional taste ; and used to say, shaking his powdered wig, holding his fiddle in one hand and his bow in the other, making all kinds of grimaces and con- tortions, which reminded me of the principal figure in the group of the Laocoon, — “ Mon Dieu, mon Dieu, young miss, vous sautez trfcs bien, mais vous dansez fort mal which means, “You jump very well, but you dance

72

BROILING.

very badly.” It also reminds me of an expression made by a friend of ours from Havre, who was on a visit to us last November. Seeing some Guy Fawkes carried about the street, he asked me what it meant ; when I told him, that in the year 1605 an attempt was made to destroy by gunpowder

the king and parliament in the House of Lords, as well as . “ Oui,

oui, madame ; I know — I remember reading of it in English history ! it was that little brute qui a voulut faire muter le Parlement,” replied he very quickly. “ Sauter, muter," I said ; “no, sir, not saute- — blowup.” “Oui, oui, madame, I know — it is the same thing.” “Same thing, ’ replied I. This of course puzzled my culinary imagination still more ; and I perceived, that if the word was translated to his meaning, it would sound most absurd and ridiculous ; as, for example, on being at a festive board, and a polite young gentleman, or even your own husband, might gallantly offer to give you a blow-up cutlet, instead of a cotelette saute, as they say in fashionable circles. I can easily conceive, that if the cotelette was blown up, it would stand a chance of coming down on the other side, thus saving the cook the trouble ; but if Guy Fawkes had unfortunately succeeded, it would have produced quite another effect. Having failed in my literary researches, I tried to find it in practice. I therefore went to my kitchen, and put two spoonfuls of oil in a saute pan ; I took a nice spring chicken prepared for broiling, put it on the fire : and as the fire began to act upon it, the oil began to jump, and also slightly the chicken. I then perceived that the way my French friend used the word was right ; and that, after all, there was not such a great difference in Guy Fawkes’s plan of cooking the Parlia- ment and that of a cutlet or chicken, for both were doomed to destruction, the one by falling in awful ruins on the fire, and the other devoured by a ravenous stomach on the dinner-table. Now, dearest, having found no means of translating it to my satisfaction, I see no other plan but to adopt it amongst us, and give it letters of naturalization, not for the beauty of the word, but for its utility. The process of sauteing is at once quick, simple, and economical, and to be well done furnishes a pleasing article of food. The art of doing it well consists in doing it quickly, to keep the gravy and succulence in the meat, which a slow process would nullify; it is of course confined to small articles of every kind of food.

BROILING is, without doubt, the earliest and most primitive mode of cookery, it being that which would present itself to man in a state of nature. It is one of the easiest parts of cookery, and therefore should be done well ,

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it entirely depends upon the fire, which must be exceedingly clear, and the best gridiron is that having round bars, which should be placed slanting over the fire, to prevent the fat going into it ; the bars should be greased, and the gridiron should be placed on the fire to get hot before the object to be cooked is placed on it. I have heard that great difference of opinion exists in cookery books upon the proper broiling of a steak, whether it should be turned only once or often. My plan is to turn it often, and my reason is, that, if turned but once, the albumen and the fibrine of the meat get charred, and the heat throws out the ozmazome or gravy on the upper side, which, when turned over, goes into the fire ; by turning it often, so as at first only to set the outside, the gravy goes into the centre, and it becomes evenly done throughout. (See “ Soyer’s Mutton Chop.”) As regards the thickness of the meat to be broiled, that depends in a great measure on the intensity of the fire, but the quicker the better, and also the sooner it is eaten after taken from the fire the better it will be. I have latterly, in broiling rump-steaks, added that which, by a great many, is considered an improvement ; it is, on turning them the last time, to dredge them out of a dredger with fine holes, in which has been placed four table-spoonfuls of fine biscuit or rusk.powder, one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, a saltspoonful of either eschalot-powder or mushroom-powder, or finely-pulverized salts of celery, well mixed together, and the steak to be placed in a very hot dish, with a little mushroom-ketchup, and a small piece of butter, and sei’ved imme- diately.

SAUCES.

Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which consist of certain rules called Syntax, and the foundation of all languages : these fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the same number of sauces, which are the foundation of all others ; but these, like its prototype the grammar, have two brown and white, which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, as they are the first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use ; the others are the adjuncts, pronouns, adverbs, and inteijections ; upon the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of all others, and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner ; for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of music, as it is by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is produced, so should the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended, and that delightful concord

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should exist, which would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear ; hut which, if badly executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system, and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure. I will therefore be very precise in describing the two, in order that when you prepare them, you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each other, whilst partaking of them at your festive board, as the present age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr. Johnson, and we are often obliged to swallow that we do not like. It is reported of him, that being at a ceremonious dinner-party, and indulging in his usual flow of wit, he unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup, which he immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from ; and observing the astonishment of some of his neighbours, he very coolly remarked, “A fool would have burnt his mouth.”

When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified dishes, which easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them. But when I expect a little company, the first order I give my cook is to make half of the quantity of the following receipts for white and brown sauces, which ought to be kept hot in a bain-marie pan, previous to the dinner. No doubt the word bain-marie is new to you, I will therefore tell you what it is. It consists of a pan containing water to the depth of about four inches, generally placed an the side of the stove, in which are placed the saucepans and stewpans, in order that their contents may be kept hot, without injuring the flavour by over heating, and no kitchen from which a good dinner is expected to be sent should be without it.

135. WHITE SAUCE.— Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weighing about four pounds, into large dice ; also half a pound of lean bacon ; butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, add two onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley, add a gill of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until the bottom of the stew- pan is covered with whitish glaze, then fill up vritli tluee quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half,

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keeping well skimmed ; pass it through a hair sieve into a basin. In another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six ounces of flour, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off, keep stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once, continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour ; add half a pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped mushrooms if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until required for use, stirring it round occa- sionally until cold. The above being a simplified white ' sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts.

136. BROWN SAUCE. — Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, rub it over the bottom, peel two or three large onions, cut them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal,* all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut small, two cloves, a few pepper- corns, a tablespoonful of salt, two bay leaves, a gill of water ; set it on a brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue the fire, let it remain a few minutes longer, and stir now and then until it has a nice brown colour ; fill your pan with three quarts of water ; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid three parts on the saucepan ; when boiling, skim fat and all ; after one hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass it through a sieve into a basin. To make the thicken- ing or Roux for it, proceed as follows : — Roux. Put two ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add three ounces of flour, stir it until getting a thin deep yellow colour ; this in France is called Roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be often referred to in

* Half veal and beef can be used ; or if no veal, all beef.

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these receipts. This process will take five minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at once three pints and a quarter of the above stock, very quickly set it on the fire to boil, remove to the corner to simmer, and skim ; it ought to be entirely free from grease, and of a light chesnut colour.

137. DEMI-GLAZE— THIN BROWN SAUCE FOR MADE DISHES. — When I have a small dinner party, I always, as I told you before, make small quantities of white and brown sauce as above, but this is a nice way of clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble, and makes it a beautiful transparent brown colour: but although I have made it quite a study, that each entree , or made dish for daily use, should make its own sauce, yet I must im- press upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown sauce, in a middle-sized stewpan, add to it half a pint of broth or consomme, put it on the stove, stir -with wooden spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take the scum off which will rise to the surface, reduce it until it adheres lightly to the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tammy into a basin, stir now and then until cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top, put it by until wanted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding half a gill of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil ; the addition of a tablespoonful of tomato sauce gives it a beautiful colour ; use where indicated.

138. THIN BROWN SAUCE OF MUSHROOMS. — Put twelve tablespoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, then have six or eight small mushrooms, well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, and place in sauce, and boil for five minutes ; taste if it is to your

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liking ; the addition of a little sugar is an improvement ; a little cayenne, if liked, may be introduced. The sauce is good for cutlets, broiled fowl, and game, &c.

139. ESCHALOT SAUCE. — Chop fine about a good tablespoonful of eschalot, place it in the corner of a napkin, and pour water over ; press until dry, and put in a small stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a little mace ; boil two minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, boil a little longer, add a little sugar, a nd serve.

140. PIQUANT or SHARP SAUCE.— Put two table- spoonfuls of chopped onions, or eschalots, cleaned as above, into a stewpan; put also four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a bay-leaf, and boil ; then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of green gher- kins; boil five minutes, skim, add a little sugar, taste if well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve.

141. TARRAGON SAUCE. — Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth, into a stewpan ; boil for a few minutes, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to simmer two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but espe- cially spring chickens.

142. BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE.— Peel a small fresh cucumber, cut it in neat pieces, put in a stewpan with a little sugar, add half an ounce of butter, set it on a slow fire, stir it now and then, add twelve tablespoonfuls ot brown sauce, and eight of broth ; let it simmer till tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucumber into another stewpan, reduce the sauce a little, taste it, pour over, and serve.

143. MINCE HERB SAUCE.— Put two tablespoon-

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fuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan, add a table- spoonfnl of oil, place it on the fixe, stir a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth or water; boil, skim ; if too thick, and the scum should not rise, add half a gill of broth or water ; boil, and reduce to a proper thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley if at hand, one of mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne ; the juice of a quarter of a lemon; serve. I often introduce a little garlic in this.

144. ITALIAN HERB SAUCE.— Proceed in the same way as the above, only add a little chopped thyme, and a small glass of sherry.

145. ROBERT SAUCE. — Peel and cut up two good- sized onions, put them in stewpan with an ounce of butter, till they are a nice yellow colour, then add eight table- spoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or broth ; skim, boil quickly ; when of a proper thickness add a good table- spoonful of French mustard ; season rather high ; if no French mustard, use English, but it completely changes the flavour, though still very palatable.

146. RAVIGOTE SAUCE. — Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little thyme, bay leaf, one clove, a little mace, a little scraped horseradish, a little butter, fry a few minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, four of broth ; when boiling, skim, add a table- spoonful of currant jelly ; when melted, pass all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of meat or poultry ; with hare or venison it is excellent.

147. BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. — Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in slices, place them in a

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stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the juice oi a quarter of a lemon, set it on a slow fire lor a few minutes, then add ten spoonfuls of deini-g'laze ; boil till they are tender, and serve. A. little mushroom catsup may be in- troduced.

148. ORANGE SAUCE FOR GAME. — Peel half an orange, removing all the pith ; cut it into slices, and then in fillets ; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes ; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in the stewpan two spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or ten of broth ; and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with duck- lings and water -fowl ; those that like may add cayenne and mustard.

149. GARLIC SAUCE. — Though many dislike the flavour of this root, yet those that like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomato sauce, if handy ; boil it a few minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in with a little sugar, and serve.

150. MINT SAUCE FOR LAMB.— Take three table- spoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint, three table- spoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin with half a pint of brown vinegar ; stir it well up, add one salt- spoonful of salt, and serve.

151. LIAISON OF EGGS.— Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream ; pass it through a fine sieve, and use when directed.

152.— ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE.— Put into a

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stewpan eight spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or three of broth ; when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy butter ; stir con- tinually till melted : serve where directed.

153. — SOYER’S SAUCE. — Put six spoonfuls of demi- glaze into a stewpan ; when hot, add four spoonfuls of Soyer’s Gentleman’s Sauce ; let boil, and serve with either chop, steak, cutlet, poultry, or game.

154. PAPILLOTTE SAUCE. — Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir over the fire for a few minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and boil ; then add a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a little scraped garlic ; reduce till rather thickisli ; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything you may put up “ en Papillotte."

155. TOMATO SAUCE. — If fresh, put six in a stew- pan ; having removed the stalk, and squeezed them in the hand to remove pips, &c., add half an onion, sliced, a little thyme, bay leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce of ham, same of butter, teaspoonful of sugar, same of salt, a quarter one of pepper ; set on fire to stew gently ; when all tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes, add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to the back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat or poultry. If preserved tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce, respecting the vegetables, omitting the vinegar, and adding the tomato, instead of brown sauce, with a tablespoonful of flour and broth to bring it to a proper thickness ; pass it through a sieve, and serve as above.

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156. C IJRRY SAUCE. — This I generally keep ready-made in the ' larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as curry ; but not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause my cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very partial to curry, but he likes it in winter ; for my part, I prefer it in summer. After having partaken of some one veiy hot summer’s day, I felt quite cool. Capt. White, who has been nearly twenty years in the East Indies, tells me that it will produce that refreshing effect ; but I can enjoy it in any season.

Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two peeled apples, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme ; stir them over a mode- iate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add two tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder, one of v infgai', tw0 oJ: flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar ; moisten it with a quart of broth or milk, or even water, with the addition of a little glaze; boil till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon ; pass a 1 through a fine sieve or tammy, give it another boil for ix few minutes, put it in a basin, and use when required Any kmd of meat, poultry, and fish, or parts of game, is excellent warmed m this sauce, and served with well- oiled and dry rice. I have kept this sauce in a cool place m tne winter for a month, boiling it now and then.

Ve quautlty of Powder may be omitted, and a spoonful oi curry paste used, or some mangoes. ( See Curries.)

SAnr/f VLRY G00D AND USEFUL WHITE bAUCE ( quite new).- Put a quart of white sauce in a stew-

pan of a proper size on a fire ; stir continually until

1™ttW0^Iksof Win basin, put back in Up’ ad< y"m' S,U1Ce sradua%. keep stirring, en add ' ,*7P“* f « *° *>r a few minutes long ”

add one pint oi boiling milk, which will bring it to

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its proper thickness; that is, when it adheres trans- parently to the back of a spoon ; pass through a tammy into a basin, stir now and then till cold. If not immediately required, and I have any stock left, I use half of it with half of milk. I also try this way, which is very convenient : when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I put it in a large gallipot, and when cold, cover with pieces of paper, and it will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and above a week in summer ; and when I want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful or two and warm it on the fire, and add enough milk or white broth to bring it to a proper thickness, and use where required. This sauce is very smooth, and never turns greasy ; it lies beautifull) on fowl, or any white made dish ; the addition ot a drop of cream gives it a very fine white appearance.

158. ONION PUREE SAUCE.— Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one ot sugar, a half one of pepper ; place on a slow fire to simmer tdl in a pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter ; pass through a tammy, warm ao-ain, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, rabbits, or fowl ; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton anc boiled rabbit as onion sauce.

159 PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER SAEICE. Boil a cauliflower well in three pints of water, in which you have previously put one ounce of butter, two tablespoo fuls of salt; when done, chop it up, having prepaied a ■ slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little cele . , half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bay-

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leaf, mace, add then the cauliflower, stir round, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten as above for onions, pass, and finish the same way.

160. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SAUCE. — Peel twelve, and well wash ; boil till tender, and proceed as above.

161. TURNIP SAUCE PUREE.— Boil six middle- sized ones, press all the water you can out of them, and proceed as the above.

162. WHITE CUCUMBER PUREE.— Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices, put in the stewpan with the same vegetables &c. as for the cauliflower ; when tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, three gills of milk or broth,' boil, finishing as the cauliflower.

163. SORREL SAUCE, or PUREE. — Wash well four handfuls of sorrel, put it nearly dry into a middle- sized stewpan, with a little butter; let it melt, add a table- spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper, moisten to a thick puree, with milk, or broth, or cream • pass it through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm again, add two whole eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, and serve where directed.

164. SPINAGE PUREE, (see Vegetables, 2? id Course.) —Endive is often used in France, and called chicoree. This puree may be made like the cauliflower, or only plainly chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of butter a gill oi white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little’ salt, pepper, and sugar.

165. STEWED PEAS AND SPRUE GRASS -For cutlets, sweetbreads, fowls, or any dishes, they are appli cable, (see Vegetables, 2nd Course,) also French beans

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only using one-third of the quantity that you would for a made dish, or for an entremet.

166. SCOOPED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.— Scoop with a round cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke, of the size of half an inch in diameter, wash them, put them in a small stewpan with half an ounce ol butter an a quarter of an ounce of sugar; put it on a slow hre tor a few minutes, add two tablespoonfals of white sauce, six of white broth or milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour in stewpan, and move it round very quick, and serve; it must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be well done ; they must not be in puree ; they are good with or served under any white meat.

]67 SCOOPED TURNIPS. — Proceed exactly the sarne^ only serve a little thinner; they will not do if stringy.

168 BUTTON ONIONS.— The same, only make the sauce thinner, and boil longer, according to their size.

169. YOUNG CARROTS.— Scrape and trim to shape twenty small and young carrots, pass in sugar and butter, add white or brown sauce, but keep it thinner, as it re- quires a longer time boiling; when tender if toi « n <■ sauce, add a tablespoonful of liaison, stir, and serve.

170 WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE. — Use small white ones; cut the dark part out and remove the tail, wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a little buttei, salt, pepper, juice of lemon, saute it lor a few mumtes, add a gill of white sauce, four tablespoonfuls ol biot , milk, or water; boil, and serve under any white meat.

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171. WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. — Peel two cucumbers, divide each lengthways into four, remove the pips, and cut into pieces one inch long; add, in stewpan, one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half of salt, let it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then add a gill of white sauce, six spoonfuls of milk, broth, or water, sim- mer gently and skim, add a tablespoonful of liaison, and serve where directed, but observe that all these garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry.

172. RAGOUT OF QUENELLES.— Make twelve nice small quenelles, ( see Quenelles,) warm half a pint of white sauce, in which you have put four tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a teaspoonful of eschalot; when well done, pour on the liaison, with the juice of a lemon, and serve. A few English truffles or mushrooms may be added to this sauce.

1/3. MAITRE-D HOTEL SAUCE. — Put eight spoon- fuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk ; boil it five minutes, then stir in two ounces of maitre-d’hotel butter ; stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in : this sauce should only be made at the time of serving.

174. GREEN PEAS STEWED— Put a pint of young- peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, with three table- spoonfuls of white sauce, two ounces of butter, a little sugai and salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied together ; boil them ten minutes ; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison, stir it in quickly, and serve.

175. GREEN PEAS WITH BACON. — Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five spoonfuls of

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brown sauce, two of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch ot parsley ; let it boil about ten minutes ; have ready braised about a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter ot an inch square, add it to the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of butter and half a tea- spoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes,

and serve.

176. BLANCHED MUSHROOMS.— Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the dirt and likewise the heads, (reserving the stalk for chopping,) wash the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sie1* e , put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes put them into a basin ready for use ; chop the stalks, and peel very fine, put them into stewpan with three table- spoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in; let them simmer three minutes, put them into ajar, and use where indicated.

Observe : Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can attain ; if they are very fresh and white, wash them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth ; throw them into the liquid above mentioned.

177. ONIONS STUFFED.— Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, and which adds a better flavour if left, blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry ; take the middle out ot eae i onion, and fill them with veal forcemeat, (with a little

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chopped eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it,) and put them in a saute-pan well buttered, cover them with white broth, let them simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over, and serve where required.

178. HOT TARTAR SAUCE. — Put four tablespoon- fuls of white sauce in a small stewpan, four of broth or milk, boil a